Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Argentina 2011


February 28, Buenos Aires, Argentina 
Bought a Hop on, Hop off bus pass today and just about killed my butt sitting in a hot hard plastic seat for 2 hours!
Went through some very interesting places.  But most of all the buildings are amazing to look at!  Great architecture! 
Got off at one of the later stops and went to the Recoleta Cemetery.  This is where Eva Perron is buried.  Very busy place.
Wandered around a little and ended up in a huge tribute to Miguel de Manuel (?),  a actor/singer/dancer from the 1950s.  Interesting as they were showing some old movies and also had many of his costumes on display!
Wandered over to the metal flower that opens with sunrise and closes with sunset.  This is just one of many sculptures around the city!
Beautiful city with wide streets and big boulevards!  Many trees and flowers.  Squares and circles and statutes all over the place.
Went out for a steak dinner tonight!  Very good.  Wine(s) and steak for about $20 and then dessert with that!  Even got complimentary drinks after dinner.  Very nice.






February 27, Buenos Aires, Argentina 
Not much exciting today, mostly a travel day.
4 hour flight from Lima to Buenos Aires.  Arrived about 7 pm, only 1 hour late and took an hour to get through the immigration and customs.
Got to hotel about an hour after that!
Went for dinner at restaurant around the corner, and then to bed!


Peru, 2011


February 26, Lima, Peru
Decided to visit the Museum Larco based on guy we met on tour bus last night.  A big place and very impressive displays of many artifacts of the Peru.  Then headed off to Huaca Huallamarca,  which was built about 200 AD.  I guess I have changed from rocks to dirt.  This is a pile of dirt and mud bricks!  Interesting as built is somewhat of a pyramid shape.  Bricks seem to be irregular is shape.  Then walked through a park full of people and olive trees, on my way to Huaca Pucllana, another pile of dirt, built about 700 AD.  These bricks are more regular shaped.  All hand formed, except for the restoration parts.  Bricks are stacked vertically with gaps inbetween, and occasionally a brick is placed opposite.  This is for earthquake proofing.  Must work as withstood many earthquakes over the years.
Supposed to have given Inca's the design of triangular to with stand earthquakes, according to the guide.
spent what was left of the day walking.  Ended up in the Indian Market and also a huge electronics store, I needed to buy a watch, my $6 Victoria market watch has been making funny noises!





February 25, Lima, Peru
Up and caught a taxi to Larcomar mall to catch tour bus to Fort Felipe Real.  This is a 1 hour drive on top of a double decker bus!  Great way to see the city but you have to watch out for low hanging trees but also low power lines and banners!  A challenge when you are trying to watch the scenery!
After a short look at the port, interesting as the the container dock is very close to the main square at the port, jumped on the bus again for a 2 minute ride to the fort!
The fort also was used as a prison.  They were kept in a completely black room, all standing!  Not nice.
Had lunch provided at small restaurant close to the harbour.  it was very good.
Got dropped off at the mall so stopped for a drink.  Spent the rest of afternoon, just walking around.  
Nice to be in warm and dry weather!  Lima gets very very little rain each year.  Measured in millimeters (no I did not make a mistake, very little rain).

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Peru, 2011


February 24, Lima, Peru
Slow start but still out of hotel by about 10 am.  Went for a walk along beach for about 3 hours.  Walked through some very nice neighbourhoods.  This area is the more affluent part of Lima.

To get to the beach you have to go down a huge cliff, guessing about 100 meters.  Walk down the road, and hope there is an elevator up!  The cliff is made of dirt and rounded river rocks.  Very interesting.  
The beach has big waves and there are many surfers but not many people in the water swimming.  They have also covered the beach with rocks, guessing to protect the sand.
Well no elevator, so found some stairs to go up!  Not so bad.  
Ended up at the Love Park, and the Kissing statute.  Walked along the top of cliff to Larcomar mall.  This mall has a huge open area that overlooks the ocean.  Very nice even for a mall.
Stopped for coffee for a while and then headed back to hotel.  Another very quiet night!


February 23, Lima, Peru
Had a lazy morning, but still up very early.
Had to change hotels this morning.  The new hotel is about a 30 minute walk from JFK square.  Got settled and then back to the square.  Caught the city tour to main square.  The buildings in the old part of the city are very nice.  Most built in 1600 and 1700 with some much newer.   The square is busy with people.  Apparently they are getting ready for the festival that starts in a few days.  Government house had a band playing, with many people dressed in costumes.  Looked great.  The tour included a visit to a 'museum', which really turned out to be the main church of the downtown area.  Stayed a while but then left and wandered around the square.  Walked over the bridge to have a look and then back to square.  

Got back to the starting point and decided to catch the night tour.  Well it covered most of the same areas but this tour spent more time at the Magic Water show.  Many fountains lit up, and one big one with a light and laser show.  Very well done.  This water park is in Guiness as the largest.  Met a young guy on bus that works at a museum who took it upon himself to look after us in the park.  He was very nice.  Again, he is working on a tourism degree!  This tour also had a stop for tea and snack at Sheraton Hotel.  Nice, but not sure why.
Back to hotel.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Peru, 2011


February 22, Lima, Peru
Leisurely start today, left at 8 am.  Headed down the trail and suddenly a big crack and a tree fell.  Turns out it fell across the stairs on way down to boat!  Turned around and went another way to the boat.
By boat for 45 minutes and then to bus for 45 minutes and then off to airport.  The plane was about 1 hour late due to rain.  It is pouring and has not stopped.  The stop in Cusco cancelled due to bad weather, so straight to Lima,  One hour late leaving but arrived 1/2 hour earlier than planned.  That is a great way to go!
Short walk around and throught JFK park.  Very nice, lots of trees, seats and even a small market.  Then to dinner and drinks as farewell to the group.
A super group to travel with and will be different not having them around after 3 weeks together, but on to the next adventure.........

February 21, Amazon Jungle, Peru
Up early for walk but pouring rain, so cancelled.  Actually the guide later told us that very dangerous to walk while raining as it causes trees to fall!  Heard a couple.
Took a short walk to river and then boat ride, another 30 minutes walk to Lake Chimbadas.  The is an elbow lake.  Boarded a catamaran powered by an oar, around the lake.  Saw a family otters fishing, cuckoos, cayman and then fished with stick, line, hook, and raw meat for bait for piranas!  Small fish but huge mouths with many teeth!
Returned to lodge, Posada Lodge, one of 3 run by Rainforest Expeditions out of Puerto Maldonado, Peru.  This is a great place.  We are very well looked after!
Had lunch, excellent as usual, and the a short walk to a look out tower, which overlooks the river and the jungle.  37 meters up!  Amazing views.  There was a philodendron with about 5 foot leaves, and roots that dropped straight down to jungle floor, 100 feet below!
Then onto boat again for short ride to Shaman's place.  This guy and his brother run a 'hospital' for the local people.  They also have gardens where they grow many plants they use for healing.  He took us on a tour.  He showed us antiseptics, sexual impotence cures (para para), cancer, arthritis, stomach cures, and general medicines.  The funniest one was a love potion.  Guy rubs this potion on his hand, then touches the one he loves.  Leaves her for 3 days and then meets her again, and she will be in love with him.  Catch is, the potion wears off in 3 months.




February 20, Amazon Jungle, Peru
After a 1 1/2 delay sitting in the airplane, arrived at Puerto Maldanado, 35 minutes later!  Apparently a storm was going through and they did not want to take off, but they had made us walk across what seemed like the whole tarmac to the plane, and then they decided to move plane to fill fuel tanks!  Not sure what happened.
But arrived ok, and then onto the office to repack bags as only allowed 1 day pack at lodge.  
Then got a 45 minute bus ride over dirt roads, complete with many pot holes, of course they were full of water!
Then onto a long boat for the 45 minute ride up the Tombogada River to the lodge.  The jungle is so thick and tall!
Welcomed nicely with a drink, and were supposed to go for a walk but it was raining.
Had dinner and the went for a night walk - saw spiders, grasshoppers, many insects and the largest tarantula I have seen!  Guide coaxed out of hole!  Bigger than a hand!
Actually heard trees falling in forest!
Back to bar for a drink.  
They turn the power generator off at about 9, so only candle and kerosene lamp lights!
The room does not have a door, only curtains as does the bathroom.  Very nice place, but the best part was no 4th wall!  There is a railing but all open to the jungle about 3 meters away.  Something else.  Can lay in bed and listen to the rain.  But does sound like it is pouring but not always as the sound is amplified by the tree leaves!  
February 19, Cusco, Peru
Lazy morning just visiting and catching up on pictures and blog.  



Went to Sun temple, but it turned out to be more of a church than anything.  Apparently the temple was mostly destroyed by Spanish and they build a monastery over top and around it.
Then spent some time wandering around the artistic area and the San Bias church.
The usual evening, dinner and drinks!  Great deals, especially with you get to happy hour, anywhere from $4 to $6 for 2 cocktails.
February 18, Cusco, Peru
Up and off to to Machu Piccu.  A 30 minute van ride up a mountain for about 1000 meters.  Mostly single lane, with hairpin curves.  Had a 2 hour tour around the main areas.  The temple area, court yards and the housing complex.  The stone work is amazing.  The tight fitted stones are for the temples and the houses have a looser work.  Still something to see considering they did not use anything but stone tools.  The mystic of the place is added too by the clouds that are continually rolling through.  Shortly after the tour the rain poured!  
Went and had coffee and dispite the rain went walking again.  Up to the guard house and the sun temple.  
Tried to go up the other peak but all the limited number of tickets were gone!
Then caught the train to Ollantaytambo (2 hours), and van back to Cusco (45 minutes).
Dinner at restaurant and then off to Frogs bar for drinks.  Home at 12.30 am.  Good night and nice to be in bar with live band.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Peru 2011


February 17, Machu Piccu, Peru
Up early and off again, but all down hill!  But very rocky but still nice.

Walked through a forest with very unusual trees.  Apparently these trees are unique to the whole area.  They have bark that seems to shred and is very red in colour.
Arrived at pick up point about 2 1/2 hours later.
As has been usual, the tents are set up, cook/dining tent ready as is lunch!  Lunch is and has been a 2 course meal.  Great soups, and then some excellent main meal.  Have eaten a lot of food!  All great.  This is 5 star camping.  Coffee or coca tea delivered to tent each morning, tents set up and taken down.  Wash basin set out for each of us.  Tough life! 
Bus to Ollantaytambo, where had some time for a coffee, and to walk around.
Caught the train to Machu Picchu city, taking about 2 hours.  Very slow but the scenery of the valley, river and mountains is great.  Lunch/snack served as well.  Very impressive.
Checked into hotel and imediately took off to soak in the hot springs.  Tough as it was up hill as well!  More walking but at least this was stoned walk ways.  The hot springs very nice, even with the gravel bottom in the pool.  Water not that hot, but still good to soak the muscles.......
Could have used more but they were closing.  Off for small dinner and back to hotel.  In bed (a real one) by 10.
February 16, Lares Trek, Peru
Woke up early, and when out of tent, the whole area was in the cloud!  Very nice, so peaceful and quiet, it must have been all the mist in the air!
Everything wet, but still put the same clothes on.  Awake at 6.30 am so lots of sleep, and can feel the legs, but not stiff so that is good!
Off walking again!  In the mist and a bit of rain to start with and did not clear until after we had gone through a short sleet/hail storm!  Thank god for the poncho!  All this and climbing to 4600 meters!  This was the highest we were to climb.  Slow going but made it.  Walked about 6 hours again in total.  But this was tough going.
Interesting as I seem to be the only one not really affected by the altitude!  The guide said that he has found the smokers do fine, as they are used to a lack of oxygen!  Shock!  But works for me!
The afternoon was great as almost got completely dry!  Shoes still very wet, but with my new alpaca socks, feet are wet but warm!  
February 15, Lares Trek, Peru
Up and off at 5 am!  Ugly!  But after a 2 1/2 hour bus ride, were left to start the hike!
7 people to look after the 4 of us!  Amazing.  Weather is cool, but not raining, YET!
Only 1 other group seems to be starting at same time.
The trek started at Pata Cancha a small place about 1 hour up gravel/dirt roads from Ollantaytambo and continued on a loop to Yanahuara.
Amazing country side.  Some of the climbs were tough, but this is the easy day!
Morning started off very nice, but rained most of the afternoon!  Poured actually!  
My $5 poncho has already paid for itself!
Walked for about 6 hours is total today!  Exhausted but feel great as it is an accomplishment!
Off to bed about 8 pm.  So early.  Nice dry tent, and warm sleeping bag, and so quiet.  Camp was at about 3600 meters.

February 14, Cusco, Peru
Spent most of day visiting the local ruins.  Started at Tambomachay.  This was nice as it was fountains.  The ability to run the water was impressive.
Then to Puka Puakara, which was a place of rest.
Caught a taxi to the next place, Qenqo.  Much digging still going on here!  This is the sacred shrine to the sun and moon.  Built into natural caves, there was a place of sacrifice.
Then to the last and largest. Saqsaywaman.  This apparently looks like a puma from the air.  But told we need some imagination!  This is huge with 3 different levels.  The stone work again is very impressive.  This one was more fortress like.
February 13, Cusco, Peru
Up for breakfast and off in van to bus station at 7.30 am.  Caught a local bus to Cusco.  389 km but takes about 7 hours!
Cusco is at about 3600 meters so a bit on cool side.  Hotel is close to main square so great to be able to walk around.  Very nice city but full of tourists and all shops geared to the tourist.
Did not do much.

Peru 2011


February 12, Puno, Peru
Can not believe it!  Not awake until 5.30, great sleep!
Breakfast of fried flat bread (flour, water, milk) and tea, very good.  Tea was peppermint from fresh picked patch somewhere as I saw the daughter head off down the hill.
Only took about 15 minutes to walk down to the dock to catch the boat.  And were sent off by the elders - handshakes and embraces and many mucho gracias.
On the boat for about 1 1/2 hours to the reed village.  Reeds grow in water and are used to make the islands, boats and for food.  The reeds are about 3 meters thick and have to be replaced about each month by just piling more on top.  The buildings appear to be on a wood base that just gets lifted up when they add more reeds to the top of island.  On this island there are 6 families.  Interesting as the island is not really that big, so they do not get a lot of exercise, and it shows!  
After a short presentation, with props of how the island is made, we were taken by different ladies to their homes.  Kind of breaks the whole thing when there is solar panels and tvs!  Oh well.  Brief look at home but then shown the various crafts that they have made for sale!  The went for a boat ride on reed boat - actually a catamaran!  Paddled by 2 people.  Slow going but our boat was not as loaded down as one of the others out on the water.  The boats are made with reeds tied tightly together.  That is the traditional way, it appears the modern way is to tie up empty pop bottles in blue tarps and then wrap the whole thing in reeds!  Looks just the same!




After a 30 minute ride back to Puno port, headed off for coffee!  It is noon, and have not had coffee yet, not a pretty sight!  Got my coffee and then headed off on tour to Sillistani funeral towers.
About 30 minute bus ride out of Puno, these towers are of 2 types.  Pre-Inca (700 AD to 1200) and Inca (1200 to 1500), all situated at the top of a hill which took a bit to climb.  The pre-inca are made of rough stone whereas the Inca are smooth carved outside.  Each are round and each tower is for 1 person.  They are buried with all the treasures they will need for the after world.  There are internal walls which seem to be sealed.  The door of the towers all face east.
Back in Puno went to the Coca Museum.  After a short film about the various dances in the area, wandered through an exhibit about the history and benefits of the coca leaf!  This seemed to be a promotion for the use of Coca.  Only 1 of the 14 components of the coca leaf is used to make cocaine.  They have dated use back  20,000 years and used by many, including some higher ups in the church!  Guess that makes it ok!  The display included reference to the use of it in Coka Cola, but did not say when the coke recipe stopped using the coca leaf.
By the time finished, it was time for a short group meeting and then for dinner.
After dinner went out to a Regge bar.  They had coca beer on the drink menu, but they did not have any!  Too bad, would have been just another of the coca 'products' to try!
February 11, Puno, Peru
Onto boat to Tequille Island, as self contained and governed community of 2000 people.
Beautiful island, but to get to top had to walk up about 300 meters, and we are already at 3800 meters.  Lost breath a couple of times, but guide gave us a peppermint smelling plant to breathe in, which seemed to help with the breathing.  Also smelled nice.
The main square is at the top of village with the town hall, nice view, and markets around the outside.  Very nice as the sun has come out.  Nice lunch, another set menu which seems to be the trend.  Soup and main course for 20 soles (about $8).  Had the trout!  Very good, as it should be as the rainbow trout were introduced to lake from Canada.  
Very interesting as the average life span is 65 to 70.  Not really that old.

The lake itself is huge, 165 km long and 60 km wide (at widest point).  3800 meters above sea level, it is the highest navigable lake above 2000 meters in the world.
Nice walk around one part of island and onto boat to go to homestay village.
What welcome.  The senior people for island met us at the dock, as well we had our own welcoming band.  Big drum, snare drum, flute and guitar!  Very nice.
After another bit of a climb to the village centre, ended up in a soccer game against some of the local kids!  Damn, they were good, and with breathing tough going, it was a lot of exercise.  I had to be 2 times the age of most of the others.  Dubbed ourselves the 'Los Condors', we did ok with the couple of ringers we adopted (the boat captain and his assistant).  Final score 5 to 2, for them!  Lots of fun.
Then off to homestay.  Another 30 minute walk, with most up hill again!  We had a very nice room with 3 beds and a separate toilet.  Was great!  Bed more comfortable than most, but with 4 blankets, the covers weighed a ton!  Big effort just to roll over!
Dinner was an excellent soup and a stewed type vegetable mixture and rice.  Very good.
Stayed with a mother and her youngest daughter.  Mother was 48, daughter 16 (the youngest of 8 children.  All the other children are apparently married and living in Puno.  Or at least that is what we could figure out as they did not speak English and we do not speak Spanish.  Good thing for a small phrase book!
They said good night to us at 7.30 but we talked until 8.30, as wake up call was not going to be until 7 am!  Much too early to go to bed.
February 10, Puno, Peru



On the road by 8 am and arrived in Puno at about 2 pm.  Long ride but seemed to go by fast.  Stopped at the 'triple' tea place again.  This time the sun was shining.
Stopped as well at the highest point along the way, about 4500 m.  There was even a snowman and snow on ground.
Along the way saw a vizcacha, a rabbit look a like animal, but with a long tail.
Also saw many flamingos, cormorants, coots, ducks, llamas, alpacas other unknown birds.
Did a short walk around the city centre.  Staying in a guest house very close to the main square. Nice place and appears to have been recently renovated, but the rooms are very small as is the bathroom.  You need to hop over the toilet to get to shower!  Still this is not the smallest I have experienced.
Puno is at about 3800 m.  Some people being affected by altitude but, knock on wood, I have been ok.

Monday, February 14, 2011

Peru 2011


February 9, Colca Valley, Peru
Early rise at 5.30 am, 6 am breakfast and in van at 6.30 for 2 hour ride up the valley.  The deepest valley in the world.  The mountains now covered in snow after all the rain yesterday, but turned out to be a nice sunny day.  The terrace work is amazing.  Half way up the mountain sides.  Some narrow some wide, depending on the the steepness of the the hill.
Took a 1 hour walk along the valley wall which is at an altitude of about 3900 meters..  Very nice.  The bottom of the valley was mostly covered in cloud, but the visibility was changing all the time.
Stopped at a look out and actually saw some Andean Condors sitting on a rock.  Apparently it is the nesting season.  Further up the valley there were about 7 or 8 condors soaring above the road!  They are huge!  3 meter wing span, riding the thermals created by the now sunny day!  There are about 48 condors in the valley and the population is slowing growing.  The young do not leave the nest until they are about 2 1/2 years old.
Gave some locals rides again as the bus service is not reliable.
To the local hot springs in evening, and the dinner and traditional dance show.
February 8, Colca Valley, Peru
Left city for the valley.  Stopped at about 4900 m for tea.  This was after stopping in the city at a market to stock up on products for the trip.  The products are all made from the coca leaf.  Yes the plant used to manufacture cocaine!  Well you can get just the leaf, cookies, hard candies, lollipops, coca sours (coca added to a Pisco Sour) and several kinds of toffee all made from coca!  They are supposed to help with altitude sickness!  Needless to say the store did a booming business!  Almost everyone on bus bought at least 2 types of 'product' and there were a couple of other buses stop while we were there.
The stop for tea was nice.  You can buy tea with a 'blend' of 3 things - mint, coca and chachacoma.  All natural of course!  Tasted not to bad, the mint was the strongest flavour!
A few stops along the way to see the other 'camel' type animal, the vicuna.  Related to the camel as are the llama and alpaca.  The vicuna has the finest wool of the 3 and goes for about $350 a kilo.
Stopped in Chivay for lunch.  Buffet, and as usual ate way too much!
Then to hotel.  By this time it is pouring rain, and we are supposed to have a hike!  Well hike cancelled but instead took a short walk to the town square, around the church yard and some back roads back to hotel.  Arrived soaking wet!  And cold.  
By time we got back the hotel had turned on the (very) small gas heaters in rooms.  Did not put out much heat.  Ended up in hotel lounge for happy hour, sitting around the fire.  Very nice.
Ate alpaca, a very popular meat.  Was very good.  It is a very fine grained meat and a pleasant taste.
Too bed early!  Again!


February 7, Arequipa, Peru
Bus was scheduled to depart at 10 pm but ended up being close to midnight!  
10 hours on the bus, but have to say quite comfortable.  Seats reclined a long way and still had a lot of leg room.
Arrived about 10 am and off to Hostal Solar!  Wow, what a great places.  Nice big clean rooms, with very nice sitting areas.
spent the rest of morning and early afternoon walking around the older part of the city.  All looks new and neat.  Most built since 1500 under Spanish.
Guide took us on a quick tour around the old part of the city.  Then headed for the monastery.  A huge place built in the 1500s and is still in use today.  There have been many reconstructions due to earthquakes but apparently the originality of the place has been retained.  The buildings were very nice to look at.  Very colourful with read geraniums.
Was surprised to find that the nun's rooms were as large as they were, and many had there own ovens and small kitchen.
Then just walked around the city.  Full of great doors and courtyards!
Early night!
February 6, on the overnight bus, Peru
Awake very early morning so sat by pool.  Very nice.  Just next door is a prickly pear cactus field.  This is used to attract the cochineal bug for its red dye.  Very lucrative crop. $400 per kilo for the powder.

Breakfast and then off to fly over Nasca Lines.  Amazing sight.  Many animals and human figures and also straight lines.  Look perfect from the air.  My pictures do not do them justice.  A few in plane were a bit green with all the tilting over the various marks. 

Then to Chauchilla Cemetery.  Here there are many tombs which were unfortunately robbed.  Some have been restored.  The people were buried in rooms underground, in the fetal position, facing east and with the items they would need in the next life.

Paracus 700 BC to 200 AD
Nasca about 300 BC to 700 AD
Chauchilla about 500 AD to 1200
Inca about 1300 AD to 1500
Spanish 1500 to 1821
Peru independence 1821

Also visited a pottery place that makes replica Nasca pottery.
Back to hotel for a rest, and happy hour!  Beers by pool while we waited for the late bus!
February 5, Nasca, Peru
Easy morning wandering around small fishing village.  Quiet and small.
Then into van.  Short drive to a Pisco distillery.  Interesting as they still crush the grapes with their feet, but have the feeling this is only done during the week long party they have during the harvest!  Pisco is an alcohol distilled from grapes.  
Tasted many of them, some good some not so good!  Pisco sours (Pisco, lime juice, and egg white blended with ice) have become the happy hour drink!
About another hour and a stop at an oasis, Huacalchina.  Here went dune bugging on some huge sand dunes!  Also got to try sand boarding.  Tried standing but spent most of my time on my ass.  I guess the snow boarding lesson of 6 years ago is lost!  And the 1 day on a board did not help.  Tried a couple of times on stomach,  much faster and a great ride!  As I was wearing sandals I did not have any brakes!  That was okay though, liked the speed!  Simple a board with velco straps and slightly up curved ends like a snow board.  A bit different but still fun, despite the sand getting everywhere!!!!!
Swim in pool after was great and made the 3 hour bus ride after more tolerable!
So flat!  With nothing growing and then green areas.  Water comes from wells.
Somewhere took wrong turn as crossed the Rio Grande river and were in Sacramento!

Stopped at the Nasca Lines tower along side of Pan American highway, just outside of Nasca. 
Short wander around Nazca, to the bank and to the grocery store.
Stayed in a hacienda type place, San Marcelo.  Very nice and very quiet!  Swimming pool as well.


February 4, Paracus, just outside of Pisco, Peru
Actually had a free morning so spent walking the streets around the hotel.  Just after lunch got a private bus to bus station to catch public bus.  At times standing room only.  Arrived at Pisco, then 30 minute to small fishing village of Paracus.  Very quiet place geared to fishing and tourists going to a nature preserve island just off the coast.  Had dinner and a Pisco Sour, which the area is famous.  The drive along coast on Pan American was very dry, maybe 2 mm rain each year.  
much sand and rocky mountains.  Most of the places there is no vegetation!  Not even weeds.  Found out later that there are 4 birds living on this type of land and some insects and lizards.  Not much but still interesting to look at!