Monday, September 27, 2010

Turkey and then to London 2010

Sept 25, London
Up and off to watch friend's son play rugby at his school.  Arrived early so had a look around the school.  The facilities available at the school would be the envy of any school or university!  Huge grounds with every available sport possible and the pitches (fields) were immaculate.
Later in day off for a pub walk.  Very nice.  Cloudy and a bit windy.
The weather here is quite cold, at least to what I am used to!  Maybe reaching a high of 20, which is very much a change!  Long pants, shoes, sweater and a jacket needed.
Sept 24, London
Easy morning, breakfast then pack to fly to London.  Arrive after a 3 1/2 hour fligh and so nice to get picked up by friend and taken to her house!
Lots of talking and catching up on the past few months.
Sept 23, Istanbul, Turkey
Caught the tram to Taksim, an area on the other side of the bay.  This is the main shopping area.  There is one long street that runs for about 2 km that is all shops with many side streets that lead off with many small cafes and restaurants.  The street is only pedestrian except for an old tram that runs the length.  The street is full of people, both all afternoon and into the night.  Wandered around, up and down the many streets ending up at the Galata Tower.  Great views of the city from the top, including the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofa.
Met up with the 2 sisters that live in Istanbul that I met on the Saklikent Gorge/Tlos tour.  We had a great dinner together at a restaurant near the tower that served Anatolyian food.  Then wandered around the streets, having some ice cream.  It was 11 pm by the time I got back to the hotel.
Sept 22, Istanbul, Turkey
Thought I had an early start to the day, but the tour buses had me beat!  Went to the Aya Sofa (started in 500s AD), an huge mosque that has been converted into a museum.  Interesting as this was first a church until 1453,  then changed to a mosque and since Muslims forbid showing faces they plastered over the many frescos and mosaics.  Turns out this preserved them so in very good condition.
The is a huge place that also has a balcony on the second floor.  This is very high, but the domes are still much higher.
Around the corner and to the Topkapi Palace, built in 1453.  Here the line ups were huge, for all the rooms, including the bath rooms.  Frustrating as people were jumping the 'queues'.  Went into the Harem, which is the area for the various wives of the Sultan, princes and also the unichs of the palace.  Many rooms including the meeting, sitting, bed, bath and dining.  Many of the rooms in tile, and not convinced many of the different styles and colours of tiles actually go together, but who am I to say.
Went to an evening performance of the Whirling Dervishes.  In 4 separate times they spin and go into a trance like state.  
Sept 21, Istanbul Turkey
Went on a boat tour of the Bosphorus River.  It joins the Black sea and Marmara Sea and divides Istanbul between the European and Asian continents.  Was interesting to see all the palaces, summer homes and castle along the shores.  The weather was very windy and cold.  I am actually wearing a sweater!  Not good!  Not used to this!
Then went for a walk and found a main eating area by the looks of it.  Lots of people around eating fresh fried fish sandwiches.  Was really very good!  4 lire ($2.50)  Also tried the Turkish bagels were are also very good and then had the Turkish donuts!  Wow.  Smothered in honey with a dusting of pistachio.  
Then wandered through the spice market.  The smells and sights are great.  I liked this much better than the Grand Bazaar.  Much more life to this place.  Turns out is a place where you can buy anything you may want.  Even electric motors, plastic goods, toys and the list goes on.
Stopped in a small place to have a coffee and a young guy and his grandfather sat beside me.  They are here on holiday from Pakistan.  The young guy's brother is studying at York.  Great chat and when they left they said they had bought my coffee.  Wow that was so nice of them.
Went to the Archeology museum.  Huge place that is in part of the old palace, I think.  Lots of exhibits, with a huge section on sarcophagus.  Then went to the Cistern, used for water storage.    Dates back to 500 AD.  The place is huge.  There are a couple of columns that have bases with statutes of Medusa at the bottom.  Weird as one is up side down and the other side ways.  They do not know why.
For the first time in months I wore long pants!  Awful!  But had to for 2 reasons - need to wear to get into Blue Mosque and also it feels cold.
Completed in 1616, the Blue Mosque is huge.  The tiles and mosaics are beautiful and true to name, much is done in blue tile.  Also interesting, they do not charge to go in and see.  They do limit where you can go but that is not a problem.  Many domes, and the large dome seems to be supported by several stained glass windows.  Very nice.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Turkey 2010

Sept 20, Istanbul, Turkey
Got to hotel at about 11 am  Long night, and hit Istanbul just in time for morning traffic.  Took for ever to get through the city.  Turns out there are only 2 brigdes that join the European and the Asian sides of the city, so lots of traffic and slow going.
Walked throught  the Grand Bazaar.  Really 4000 shops selling everything you can imagine!  Then on to the Roman Aquaduct.  Disappointed as not able to walk along the top!  Tough one as many of the other sites you could crawl all over the various sites.  Stopped for Turkish coffee at small vendor under on of the arches of Aquaduct.  Very good. And had to have picture taken.
Went out for something to eat and then some walking.  Went to an exhibition called '1001 Inventions' staring Ben Kingsley.  Showed the many inventions by Turks that influenuce the world today.  Very well done as has won several film festival Gold awards.
Wandered around a bit and then got hit up by a guy in front of carpet place.  He asked for 10 minutes so he could practice his English, and no sooner had I sat down that he was gone and a  salesman joined in.  30 minutes later, I left, having not bought anything!  Told salesman that up front but he tried very hard!
Sept 19, day in Goreme then on bus over night to Istanbul, Turkey
Another slow start to the day.  Legs a bit tired from the hike and then the walking up and down stairs yesterday in the underground city.  Had to bend over as the the ceilings were very low in places.
I rented mountain bike for the day.  Got part way out of city and realized legs were extremely tired!  But did make it to Fairy Chimneys.  This are layers of lava of different colours and density.  The top is the hardest and does not erode as fast as the softer, sandston like rock below it!  Amazing to see them. 
But was so tired and legs so sore that headed back after being out for only about 2 hours.  Then just relaxed at pension as had to catch a bus at 8 pm to Istanbul.
The wait for bus in the small village was very interesting.  Many people there to send off family I guess, but also sent huge bags of potatoes and onions back with them.  The huge storage area was full with this and the baggage.  Amazed that they got it all in!  The pick up spot was the street so people were wandering around the street.  Good thing not alot of traffic!
The local school kids had fun, 'talking' to some of the tourists.  The usual questions!  And of course the need to have their picture taken.
Sept 18, Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey
Took a tour of the area.  Stopped first at the panorama of  Goreme.  The area is really something.  The land around is virtually flat and it just drops into these valleys that have some amazing rock formations (yes more rocks!)  Much of it looks like sandstone but is a lot of balsa (?) around as well as many of the new houses are building with balsa bricks. 
Next stop an Underground city, one of about 200, which were started in about 3 century BC.  These were built originally as a safe place to hide from attachers and later used for shelter and storage.  They are a maze of underground rooms, kitchens, wineries, monasteries, schools, and barns.  They also have get away tunnels, one of them being 9 km long.  The tunnels are low and narrow so was a challenge bending over and walking up and down the stairs.
Took a walk along 3 km of Ilhara valley.  Very nice with very high cliffs and a small stream running through the center.  A couple of churches along the way.
The Semila Monastery built into the rocks.  Several chapels with tunnels joining.  These were used and built to hide out from the pageans.

Sept 17, Goreme, Cappadocia,, Turkey
Left at 9.30 pm and arrived in Goreme at 7.30 am!  And it was cold!  Turns out this is in a desert and cool at night.
Got checked into a pension.  As heading to room, ran into one of the people I met in Kas!  Great to see her again.  Drank lots of coffee and had some breakfast.  Then on hike.
Went to the Goreme Open Air museum.  This area is sandstone with houses, and churches carved out of the stone!  Amazing sights.  There are holes in many of the the spires (not sure what to call them).  The museum is mostly various chapels and churches.  These are very detailed and completely carved into the stone.
Then headed off on a hike through a couple of the valleys, Rose Valley and Red Valley, both named after the colour of the stone.  Beautiful.  Met a retired guy from Toronto so we ended up doing the rest of the walk together.  Lots of up and down and climbing into some of the holes.  Saw a couple more churches.  One of them even had columns, and an atler and chapels off to the side.  All carved out of the stone!
5 hours later, got back tot he pension.    A great place, very friendly.  Rock Valley Pension, which was recommended by a couple met in Kas!
Sept 16, Antalya, Turkey
Another lazy day.  Not doing much as have an over night bus to catch.  
Went out to Konyalta beach by tram.  Took about 30 minutes.  This is a huge stretch of pebble beach with a few very fancy beach club type bars/restaurants.  Great place but hardly anyone around.  Water was very clear and nice and warm.  Gets deep fast but still nice.

Saw a Hobie 16 today!  Check and it would cost too much for 1 person, so past on it.  They would not even consider reducing price!  Watched and it never got used for the 2 hours I was there.
Had a nice lunch on way back to town.
Then went to a Hamam (Turkish sauna).  Interesting experience.  The one guy was very rude when he realized I had no idea what to do.
For 25 lire ($18) I got a sauna, then a scrub down with something that felt like sandpaper on the skin, and they called it a 'peel'!
Then soaped down and then buckets of water thrown at me to rinse!  All I can say is 'interesting'.
Talked to an 18 year guy that sells shoes while I was waiting for the bus.  He spoke very little English.  He had the usual conversation questions - Where are you from?  What is your name?  How old are you?  Turns out he quit school and was a bit shocked when I told him I was a teacher!  So instantly started the English lessons.  That mixed in with a teasing session with another guy about which was the best city, Antalya or Izmir.  The guy was from Izmir.
Funny as the guy on the bus asked exactly the same questions.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Turkey 2010

Sept 15, Antalya, Turkey
Another lazy day.  Nice breakfast chatting with the only other guest at hotel.  A German lady that has done an amazing amount of travel. She has given be hints on places is Jordan and Vietnam, but also has increased my interest in India!  She is here on her own as she wanted a beach holiday and her husband wanted climbing!
I went to Duden falls today.  This strange waterfall in the middle of nowhere.  Great as this is spring fed and is under and over ground a few times.  A great picnic spot.  They have also carved out a tunnel behind the falls.  Water dripping everywhere.  
Wandered around city after dinner.  Went and watched the ice cream guy again.  He always has an audience.  Bought an ice cream and actually got to eat it after he stuck it in my pocket and then onto my nose.  Hilarious.  Great traditional Turkish ice cream.


Sept 14, Antalya, Turkey
Lazy day, slow breakfast but nice as very good service, as there are so few people here.  Talked to the German woman a bit and she gave me some hints on what to see.
Spend the afternoon just wandering around the city and the various shops and bazaars.  It is so quiet the shopkeepers seem to have gotten lazy and they do not even hassle you that much!  Nice!
Fish for dinner.  Head and all!  Was very good.  The waiter actually remembered me as last night I said I would be back for dinner but had too big of a lunch.  He laughed and said that he waited for me!  Too funny, but amazing that he remembered!
Went for a walk caught some more of light/fountain show and then spent about 15 minutes just watching an ice cream vendor.  He was hilarious as he would tease each customer as he delivered the ice creams.  He actually had a good sized audience!  I think you would have to see it to understand.
Sept 13, Antalya, Turkey
After about a 5 hour bus ride made it to Antalya.  Found a pension in the old part of the city.  The pension has seen better days but still good.  Turns out there is only 1 other person here, a German lady!  Amazing how quiet this place is, but school and university is back so not that many tourists around. 
Spent the evening just wandering around the old city.  They have a music and water fountain show which was well attended and very good to watch.  I missed over half of it so will try again to see the rest of it.
Many of the houses and pensions are in the Ottoman style.  They have enclosed balconies the hang over the street.  This is a 600 year period starting about 1300.  The buildlings are very interesting with the different shapes and sizes, especially the garden areas.  But there are some that have seen better days and are in various states of disrepair.  Even a few 'For sale' signs.
Sept 12, Kas, Turkey
Up early in morning and up to terrace for breakfast.  Turkish breakfast includes lots of bread, black and green olives, cheddar and feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, honey (the best), and many different and very good jams.
The French Canadian woman joined me for breakfast.  Great to talk to her.  Her pension roommate from Germany joined us and we had a great talk about traveling experiences.
During many of the trips for breakfast I kept running into a woman.  Turns out she is from West Bank and they visit Turkey several times.
Spent the day walking along the coast and snorkeling when there seemed to be a nice place.  Tough as the wind was howling today and the waves huge.  And I was not game enough to be climbing into water from the rocks!  Remembering that last time!  And there are plenty of sea urchins here!
Got back to pension and was sitting in the lounge area.  Very Turkish with pillows around a large table.  The German woman came in and invited for dinner with a group she met on her boat trip!  Then talked to another couple staying a pension and they joined us.  A Dutch woman and Turkish man.  The group at dinner ended up being about 15 people!  Was great, lots of talking and laughing.  Countries represented - Turkey, Germany, Netherlands, Australia, and Canada!  Great fun.  Dinner lasted about 3 hours and the food was super!
Sept 11, Kas, Turkey
Up early this morning and off to travel agent.  Took a sea kayak trip to the sunken city.  First was a 40 minutes drive over a couple of mountains.  Amazing country side.  Each valley was full of greenhouses built on very red dirt.  It looks like they dig up the dirt and put in greenhouses, and then use the holes for water storage!  The mountains and the rest of the land is very rocky, volcanic.
The kayaking was great.  After about 2 minutes of instruction we headed out the Kekova Island, where one of the sunken cities are.  Here you can swim around the walls that are under the water.  Very nice.  We then headed off to the national park over more of the sunken city.  Found out later that my camera did not work.  I bought a water proof bag to keep the camera dry, but  all of the pictures I took of the sunken city did not turn out.  
Next across the bay to the main land to a small village (Kalnekoy or Simena) that is only accessible by water or walking.  Lunch and then a walk up to the top of the hill to a castle that dates back about 3000 years.  A swim around the most famous tomb that is standing in the water.  So neat to be able to do that!
A short paddle back to the start off point and back to Kas.  Great way to spend the day.
Went for a beer on the terrace of pension as it has a great view of the bay of Kas and the Greek island of Meis.  Met a woman from Laval, PQ.  One of the few Canadians I have met.
Sept 10, Kas, Turkey
Slow morning. Then visited the theatre which half a block down the road.  Turkey is in the process of restoring.  
Then to a tomb which was just up the hill a bit.  Spent the rest of the day wandering around some more.  Bought a snorkel set and went off to swim.  The spot has some very very cold water.  I think that there must be some fresh water running in as so cold but also they is little distortions to the water that I think is the mixing of fresh and salt water.
Was a nice way to spend the afternoon.
Sept 9, Kas, Turkey
Caught the dolmus right at the pension door to Kas.  This is amazing.  7.50 lire ($5) for  the one hour ride to Kas.  The drive was along a fairly new highway that follows along the coast.  Beautiful sights.  The colour of the water is such a nice colour.
Arrived and found the pension easily.  Easy when you call and they come and pick up up.  
Had a coffee and ended up talking to a couple for Cape Town, South Africa.  They were staying in the hotel next door and were planning on moving to this pension as it seemed to have more atmosphere.
Spent the rest of the day wandering around the city.  

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Turkey 2010

Sept 8, Patara, Turkey
Off this morning to the ancient city to see the lighthouse.  Supposed to be one of the first on the Mediterranean.  But in my usual style got lost.  I must have missed one of the turns the neighbour in the pension told me.  

But did end up on a hill over looking the beach and could see lighthouse.  Only missed it by a km or 2 and a couple of steep hills!

Walked down to the beach through some huge sand dunes and had a swim.  Walked along the beach to a community run restaurant, the only place on the beach.  Ran into a English couple that were on the canoe trip!  It is a small place.

Walked a bit more and then headed back, via the road, to the lighthouse.  Found it no problem.  Then went to some other old buildings.  They are huge, but not sure of use of one, the other was a tomb, I think!
Sept 7, Patara, Turkey
Today went on a canoe trip down a river.  The Turkish guy is here as well.  He is still trying to teach me some Turkish, but I am a slow learner!
Was very nice as this is the river that comes from the Saklikent gorge.  Saw a few turtles.  
Also had a mud bath on one of the stops.  The guide guaranteed that my hair would grow back!
We were supposed to paddle to the beach but the wind was very strong and would have had to work too hard to get there as well as the risk of capsizing was high!
Lunch was provided as a BBQ chicken kabob.  Very good!
Got back to hotel and headed to Kalkan by dolmus, to find out about boat trips to the sunken city.  In Patara there are not enough people to run any tour.
The tourism is very low here.  There are many pensions, but does not seem to be very many people around.  The village is not very big but has many pensions and a lot of restaurants.  Also  there are about 5 'markets', which are really convenience stores.  I do not know how they make a go of it.
People are very nice and very friendly.  They are not aggressive in their selling which is a nice change from the cities.
Sept 6, Patara, Turkey
Caught the bus from Fethiye to Patara which took about 1 1/2 hours, dropped off at the junction and then had to catch a dolmus to pension, to the door.
Went for a walk to the ancient city and wandered around.  Saw 3 tortoises.
also there is a large theatre as well.
Went to the beach which is about 18 km long.  This is a protected area for the nesting loggerhead turtles.
Could not do much as the wind was so strong that it felt like being sand blasted.
Great as there are no buildings in sight of the beach so it does not disturb the nesting turtles or the hatchlings getting to the water.
Sept 5, Fethiye, Turkey
Caught the water taxi into the city and then walked up to the old tombs.  These are carved out of the side of the mountain.  They date back to about 3 or 4 th century BC.  The richer you are the highter your tomb and the more intricate the carving.    Met a Turkish guy that is doing some travelling and is heading in the same direction as I am.  He is on his way to Antayla for university.   He was walking up to the tombs as well.  He is really into history so I got a bit of a history lesson of the area and Turkey, and he is tried to teach me some Turkish.  On the way back to the city there was even a tomb in the middle of the street.
Back to hotel for a swim and lazed some more!
Sept 4, Fethiye, Turkey
Did not do much.  Lazy day.   Reserved too many days here.  
Sept 3, Fethiye, Turkey
On a bus tour today to Tlos, an ancient city on Lycian road, with tombs carved into the rocks and the city area below.  The tombs are interesting as they too are classed.  Royality is at the top and the rich the next level and the general population lower down.  The guide said that the tombs that are more like sarcofacus are those of sailors.  You can tell as the lids look like the undersides of boats.  
I paid 20 Turkish Lire for a rock! It is carved!  Haggled and got the price down to 19.99, handed the kid a 20 and he comes back with my change with a big smile on his face!
Had lunch at a trout farm.  Fresh trout was on the menu.  This is an area where there is a steady flow of fresh spring water.  The area around is agriculture, growing vegetables, hay, and fruits.
We then took a hike along the Saklikent gorge, climbing ovre and under rocks.  Ended up walking with a woman from Istanbul.  Her camera flash card was full so I became the photographer again.  She walked part way and then stopped, later caught up with the group with a couple of young boys, no more than 3 feet tall.  They were helping her over and under the rocks.  They adopted me as well, but sure if I fell I would have crushed them both.  But that is how they made some money.  In places the walls are 350 meters high and the gorge is 18 km long. 
The cultural part of this trip was a stop at the carpet factory.  Hilarious as i walk in and this guy calls me by name.  I meet him on the bus the day I arrived.  The carpets are beautiful, so good thing the credit card was in hotel.
Got a haircut tonight, bargain at 10 Lire ($7) until he lit a small alcohol type torch. He lit it and started hitting his hand with it!  Turns out he uses to singe the hair in the ears!  The smell of burned hair is pretty bad!


Sept 2, Fethiye, Turkey
Caught the dolmus (pronounced 'dolmush') a mini bus that stops anywhere, to Oludeniz beach, or known here as the Blue Lagoon.  Water was really blue, the sand was very nice and the water great.  Weird as the paragliders were landing on a (very) small piece of grass between the walkway and the beach.  Zooming right over your head, or when on the beach this shadow would pass over you.  Still great to watch.
This is the high end area for all inclusive hotels.  I am in the cheap area!  And there is a big difference, about 50% in prices of food and souvenirs.  It took about an hour to get there.
Sept 1, Fethiye, Turkey
Took a walk along the beach and stopped at travel agent.  Ended up with 2 trips.
The first was  a quad bike trip, interesting as went through a rural area and then up over a pass and down to a very nice looking beach.  Ok trip but in the 3 hours we had 2 restaurant stops and some 'who can create the most flying dirt' time in the bushes on dusty trails.  And then there was the small oval where the guide was doing donuts after telling the guys on the trip that they were NOT to do any fancy stuff!  The guide was a real character.  I do not think he stopped talking the whole time!
On the way we past the ghost town, created in 1923, Independence day for Turkey, when they sent all the Greeks living in Turkey back to Greece and the Turkish living in Greece came home.  House were just left.
August 31, Bodrum/Fethiye, Turkey
Had my final breakfast this morning.  The guys told me that I could go to Fethiye for a couple of days but then had to come back to the Bodrum Park Hotel.
I think I have experienced it all!  I am on a bus from Bodrum to Fethiye, which should take about 4 hours.  Very nice bus.  No sooner had we pulled out of the station and a man came around and gave each a glass of cold water!  Then about an hour into the trip after the first stop, he came around again this time with coffee, pop or juice!  Free!  After coffee I pulled out computer to update journal and I have free internet access 'on the bus'!  Then after the next stop, out came the coffee, water and juice but this time a selection of snacks, pretzels, cookies or something that lookied like a chocolate bar!  Amazing!  Turkey definitely wins for bus travel!