Saturday, February 26, 2011

Peru, 2011


February 24, Lima, Peru
Slow start but still out of hotel by about 10 am.  Went for a walk along beach for about 3 hours.  Walked through some very nice neighbourhoods.  This area is the more affluent part of Lima.

To get to the beach you have to go down a huge cliff, guessing about 100 meters.  Walk down the road, and hope there is an elevator up!  The cliff is made of dirt and rounded river rocks.  Very interesting.  
The beach has big waves and there are many surfers but not many people in the water swimming.  They have also covered the beach with rocks, guessing to protect the sand.
Well no elevator, so found some stairs to go up!  Not so bad.  
Ended up at the Love Park, and the Kissing statute.  Walked along the top of cliff to Larcomar mall.  This mall has a huge open area that overlooks the ocean.  Very nice even for a mall.
Stopped for coffee for a while and then headed back to hotel.  Another very quiet night!


February 23, Lima, Peru
Had a lazy morning, but still up very early.
Had to change hotels this morning.  The new hotel is about a 30 minute walk from JFK square.  Got settled and then back to the square.  Caught the city tour to main square.  The buildings in the old part of the city are very nice.  Most built in 1600 and 1700 with some much newer.   The square is busy with people.  Apparently they are getting ready for the festival that starts in a few days.  Government house had a band playing, with many people dressed in costumes.  Looked great.  The tour included a visit to a 'museum', which really turned out to be the main church of the downtown area.  Stayed a while but then left and wandered around the square.  Walked over the bridge to have a look and then back to square.  

Got back to the starting point and decided to catch the night tour.  Well it covered most of the same areas but this tour spent more time at the Magic Water show.  Many fountains lit up, and one big one with a light and laser show.  Very well done.  This water park is in Guiness as the largest.  Met a young guy on bus that works at a museum who took it upon himself to look after us in the park.  He was very nice.  Again, he is working on a tourism degree!  This tour also had a stop for tea and snack at Sheraton Hotel.  Nice, but not sure why.
Back to hotel.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Peru, 2011


February 22, Lima, Peru
Leisurely start today, left at 8 am.  Headed down the trail and suddenly a big crack and a tree fell.  Turns out it fell across the stairs on way down to boat!  Turned around and went another way to the boat.
By boat for 45 minutes and then to bus for 45 minutes and then off to airport.  The plane was about 1 hour late due to rain.  It is pouring and has not stopped.  The stop in Cusco cancelled due to bad weather, so straight to Lima,  One hour late leaving but arrived 1/2 hour earlier than planned.  That is a great way to go!
Short walk around and throught JFK park.  Very nice, lots of trees, seats and even a small market.  Then to dinner and drinks as farewell to the group.
A super group to travel with and will be different not having them around after 3 weeks together, but on to the next adventure.........

February 21, Amazon Jungle, Peru
Up early for walk but pouring rain, so cancelled.  Actually the guide later told us that very dangerous to walk while raining as it causes trees to fall!  Heard a couple.
Took a short walk to river and then boat ride, another 30 minutes walk to Lake Chimbadas.  The is an elbow lake.  Boarded a catamaran powered by an oar, around the lake.  Saw a family otters fishing, cuckoos, cayman and then fished with stick, line, hook, and raw meat for bait for piranas!  Small fish but huge mouths with many teeth!
Returned to lodge, Posada Lodge, one of 3 run by Rainforest Expeditions out of Puerto Maldonado, Peru.  This is a great place.  We are very well looked after!
Had lunch, excellent as usual, and the a short walk to a look out tower, which overlooks the river and the jungle.  37 meters up!  Amazing views.  There was a philodendron with about 5 foot leaves, and roots that dropped straight down to jungle floor, 100 feet below!
Then onto boat again for short ride to Shaman's place.  This guy and his brother run a 'hospital' for the local people.  They also have gardens where they grow many plants they use for healing.  He took us on a tour.  He showed us antiseptics, sexual impotence cures (para para), cancer, arthritis, stomach cures, and general medicines.  The funniest one was a love potion.  Guy rubs this potion on his hand, then touches the one he loves.  Leaves her for 3 days and then meets her again, and she will be in love with him.  Catch is, the potion wears off in 3 months.




February 20, Amazon Jungle, Peru
After a 1 1/2 delay sitting in the airplane, arrived at Puerto Maldanado, 35 minutes later!  Apparently a storm was going through and they did not want to take off, but they had made us walk across what seemed like the whole tarmac to the plane, and then they decided to move plane to fill fuel tanks!  Not sure what happened.
But arrived ok, and then onto the office to repack bags as only allowed 1 day pack at lodge.  
Then got a 45 minute bus ride over dirt roads, complete with many pot holes, of course they were full of water!
Then onto a long boat for the 45 minute ride up the Tombogada River to the lodge.  The jungle is so thick and tall!
Welcomed nicely with a drink, and were supposed to go for a walk but it was raining.
Had dinner and the went for a night walk - saw spiders, grasshoppers, many insects and the largest tarantula I have seen!  Guide coaxed out of hole!  Bigger than a hand!
Actually heard trees falling in forest!
Back to bar for a drink.  
They turn the power generator off at about 9, so only candle and kerosene lamp lights!
The room does not have a door, only curtains as does the bathroom.  Very nice place, but the best part was no 4th wall!  There is a railing but all open to the jungle about 3 meters away.  Something else.  Can lay in bed and listen to the rain.  But does sound like it is pouring but not always as the sound is amplified by the tree leaves!  
February 19, Cusco, Peru
Lazy morning just visiting and catching up on pictures and blog.  



Went to Sun temple, but it turned out to be more of a church than anything.  Apparently the temple was mostly destroyed by Spanish and they build a monastery over top and around it.
Then spent some time wandering around the artistic area and the San Bias church.
The usual evening, dinner and drinks!  Great deals, especially with you get to happy hour, anywhere from $4 to $6 for 2 cocktails.
February 18, Cusco, Peru
Up and off to to Machu Piccu.  A 30 minute van ride up a mountain for about 1000 meters.  Mostly single lane, with hairpin curves.  Had a 2 hour tour around the main areas.  The temple area, court yards and the housing complex.  The stone work is amazing.  The tight fitted stones are for the temples and the houses have a looser work.  Still something to see considering they did not use anything but stone tools.  The mystic of the place is added too by the clouds that are continually rolling through.  Shortly after the tour the rain poured!  
Went and had coffee and dispite the rain went walking again.  Up to the guard house and the sun temple.  
Tried to go up the other peak but all the limited number of tickets were gone!
Then caught the train to Ollantaytambo (2 hours), and van back to Cusco (45 minutes).
Dinner at restaurant and then off to Frogs bar for drinks.  Home at 12.30 am.  Good night and nice to be in bar with live band.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Peru 2011


February 17, Machu Piccu, Peru
Up early and off again, but all down hill!  But very rocky but still nice.

Walked through a forest with very unusual trees.  Apparently these trees are unique to the whole area.  They have bark that seems to shred and is very red in colour.
Arrived at pick up point about 2 1/2 hours later.
As has been usual, the tents are set up, cook/dining tent ready as is lunch!  Lunch is and has been a 2 course meal.  Great soups, and then some excellent main meal.  Have eaten a lot of food!  All great.  This is 5 star camping.  Coffee or coca tea delivered to tent each morning, tents set up and taken down.  Wash basin set out for each of us.  Tough life! 
Bus to Ollantaytambo, where had some time for a coffee, and to walk around.
Caught the train to Machu Picchu city, taking about 2 hours.  Very slow but the scenery of the valley, river and mountains is great.  Lunch/snack served as well.  Very impressive.
Checked into hotel and imediately took off to soak in the hot springs.  Tough as it was up hill as well!  More walking but at least this was stoned walk ways.  The hot springs very nice, even with the gravel bottom in the pool.  Water not that hot, but still good to soak the muscles.......
Could have used more but they were closing.  Off for small dinner and back to hotel.  In bed (a real one) by 10.
February 16, Lares Trek, Peru
Woke up early, and when out of tent, the whole area was in the cloud!  Very nice, so peaceful and quiet, it must have been all the mist in the air!
Everything wet, but still put the same clothes on.  Awake at 6.30 am so lots of sleep, and can feel the legs, but not stiff so that is good!
Off walking again!  In the mist and a bit of rain to start with and did not clear until after we had gone through a short sleet/hail storm!  Thank god for the poncho!  All this and climbing to 4600 meters!  This was the highest we were to climb.  Slow going but made it.  Walked about 6 hours again in total.  But this was tough going.
Interesting as I seem to be the only one not really affected by the altitude!  The guide said that he has found the smokers do fine, as they are used to a lack of oxygen!  Shock!  But works for me!
The afternoon was great as almost got completely dry!  Shoes still very wet, but with my new alpaca socks, feet are wet but warm!  
February 15, Lares Trek, Peru
Up and off at 5 am!  Ugly!  But after a 2 1/2 hour bus ride, were left to start the hike!
7 people to look after the 4 of us!  Amazing.  Weather is cool, but not raining, YET!
Only 1 other group seems to be starting at same time.
The trek started at Pata Cancha a small place about 1 hour up gravel/dirt roads from Ollantaytambo and continued on a loop to Yanahuara.
Amazing country side.  Some of the climbs were tough, but this is the easy day!
Morning started off very nice, but rained most of the afternoon!  Poured actually!  
My $5 poncho has already paid for itself!
Walked for about 6 hours is total today!  Exhausted but feel great as it is an accomplishment!
Off to bed about 8 pm.  So early.  Nice dry tent, and warm sleeping bag, and so quiet.  Camp was at about 3600 meters.

February 14, Cusco, Peru
Spent most of day visiting the local ruins.  Started at Tambomachay.  This was nice as it was fountains.  The ability to run the water was impressive.
Then to Puka Puakara, which was a place of rest.
Caught a taxi to the next place, Qenqo.  Much digging still going on here!  This is the sacred shrine to the sun and moon.  Built into natural caves, there was a place of sacrifice.
Then to the last and largest. Saqsaywaman.  This apparently looks like a puma from the air.  But told we need some imagination!  This is huge with 3 different levels.  The stone work again is very impressive.  This one was more fortress like.
February 13, Cusco, Peru
Up for breakfast and off in van to bus station at 7.30 am.  Caught a local bus to Cusco.  389 km but takes about 7 hours!
Cusco is at about 3600 meters so a bit on cool side.  Hotel is close to main square so great to be able to walk around.  Very nice city but full of tourists and all shops geared to the tourist.
Did not do much.

Peru 2011


February 12, Puno, Peru
Can not believe it!  Not awake until 5.30, great sleep!
Breakfast of fried flat bread (flour, water, milk) and tea, very good.  Tea was peppermint from fresh picked patch somewhere as I saw the daughter head off down the hill.
Only took about 15 minutes to walk down to the dock to catch the boat.  And were sent off by the elders - handshakes and embraces and many mucho gracias.
On the boat for about 1 1/2 hours to the reed village.  Reeds grow in water and are used to make the islands, boats and for food.  The reeds are about 3 meters thick and have to be replaced about each month by just piling more on top.  The buildings appear to be on a wood base that just gets lifted up when they add more reeds to the top of island.  On this island there are 6 families.  Interesting as the island is not really that big, so they do not get a lot of exercise, and it shows!  
After a short presentation, with props of how the island is made, we were taken by different ladies to their homes.  Kind of breaks the whole thing when there is solar panels and tvs!  Oh well.  Brief look at home but then shown the various crafts that they have made for sale!  The went for a boat ride on reed boat - actually a catamaran!  Paddled by 2 people.  Slow going but our boat was not as loaded down as one of the others out on the water.  The boats are made with reeds tied tightly together.  That is the traditional way, it appears the modern way is to tie up empty pop bottles in blue tarps and then wrap the whole thing in reeds!  Looks just the same!




After a 30 minute ride back to Puno port, headed off for coffee!  It is noon, and have not had coffee yet, not a pretty sight!  Got my coffee and then headed off on tour to Sillistani funeral towers.
About 30 minute bus ride out of Puno, these towers are of 2 types.  Pre-Inca (700 AD to 1200) and Inca (1200 to 1500), all situated at the top of a hill which took a bit to climb.  The pre-inca are made of rough stone whereas the Inca are smooth carved outside.  Each are round and each tower is for 1 person.  They are buried with all the treasures they will need for the after world.  There are internal walls which seem to be sealed.  The door of the towers all face east.
Back in Puno went to the Coca Museum.  After a short film about the various dances in the area, wandered through an exhibit about the history and benefits of the coca leaf!  This seemed to be a promotion for the use of Coca.  Only 1 of the 14 components of the coca leaf is used to make cocaine.  They have dated use back  20,000 years and used by many, including some higher ups in the church!  Guess that makes it ok!  The display included reference to the use of it in Coka Cola, but did not say when the coke recipe stopped using the coca leaf.
By the time finished, it was time for a short group meeting and then for dinner.
After dinner went out to a Regge bar.  They had coca beer on the drink menu, but they did not have any!  Too bad, would have been just another of the coca 'products' to try!
February 11, Puno, Peru
Onto boat to Tequille Island, as self contained and governed community of 2000 people.
Beautiful island, but to get to top had to walk up about 300 meters, and we are already at 3800 meters.  Lost breath a couple of times, but guide gave us a peppermint smelling plant to breathe in, which seemed to help with the breathing.  Also smelled nice.
The main square is at the top of village with the town hall, nice view, and markets around the outside.  Very nice as the sun has come out.  Nice lunch, another set menu which seems to be the trend.  Soup and main course for 20 soles (about $8).  Had the trout!  Very good, as it should be as the rainbow trout were introduced to lake from Canada.  
Very interesting as the average life span is 65 to 70.  Not really that old.

The lake itself is huge, 165 km long and 60 km wide (at widest point).  3800 meters above sea level, it is the highest navigable lake above 2000 meters in the world.
Nice walk around one part of island and onto boat to go to homestay village.
What welcome.  The senior people for island met us at the dock, as well we had our own welcoming band.  Big drum, snare drum, flute and guitar!  Very nice.
After another bit of a climb to the village centre, ended up in a soccer game against some of the local kids!  Damn, they were good, and with breathing tough going, it was a lot of exercise.  I had to be 2 times the age of most of the others.  Dubbed ourselves the 'Los Condors', we did ok with the couple of ringers we adopted (the boat captain and his assistant).  Final score 5 to 2, for them!  Lots of fun.
Then off to homestay.  Another 30 minute walk, with most up hill again!  We had a very nice room with 3 beds and a separate toilet.  Was great!  Bed more comfortable than most, but with 4 blankets, the covers weighed a ton!  Big effort just to roll over!
Dinner was an excellent soup and a stewed type vegetable mixture and rice.  Very good.
Stayed with a mother and her youngest daughter.  Mother was 48, daughter 16 (the youngest of 8 children.  All the other children are apparently married and living in Puno.  Or at least that is what we could figure out as they did not speak English and we do not speak Spanish.  Good thing for a small phrase book!
They said good night to us at 7.30 but we talked until 8.30, as wake up call was not going to be until 7 am!  Much too early to go to bed.
February 10, Puno, Peru



On the road by 8 am and arrived in Puno at about 2 pm.  Long ride but seemed to go by fast.  Stopped at the 'triple' tea place again.  This time the sun was shining.
Stopped as well at the highest point along the way, about 4500 m.  There was even a snowman and snow on ground.
Along the way saw a vizcacha, a rabbit look a like animal, but with a long tail.
Also saw many flamingos, cormorants, coots, ducks, llamas, alpacas other unknown birds.
Did a short walk around the city centre.  Staying in a guest house very close to the main square. Nice place and appears to have been recently renovated, but the rooms are very small as is the bathroom.  You need to hop over the toilet to get to shower!  Still this is not the smallest I have experienced.
Puno is at about 3800 m.  Some people being affected by altitude but, knock on wood, I have been ok.

Monday, February 14, 2011

Peru 2011


February 9, Colca Valley, Peru
Early rise at 5.30 am, 6 am breakfast and in van at 6.30 for 2 hour ride up the valley.  The deepest valley in the world.  The mountains now covered in snow after all the rain yesterday, but turned out to be a nice sunny day.  The terrace work is amazing.  Half way up the mountain sides.  Some narrow some wide, depending on the the steepness of the the hill.
Took a 1 hour walk along the valley wall which is at an altitude of about 3900 meters..  Very nice.  The bottom of the valley was mostly covered in cloud, but the visibility was changing all the time.
Stopped at a look out and actually saw some Andean Condors sitting on a rock.  Apparently it is the nesting season.  Further up the valley there were about 7 or 8 condors soaring above the road!  They are huge!  3 meter wing span, riding the thermals created by the now sunny day!  There are about 48 condors in the valley and the population is slowing growing.  The young do not leave the nest until they are about 2 1/2 years old.
Gave some locals rides again as the bus service is not reliable.
To the local hot springs in evening, and the dinner and traditional dance show.
February 8, Colca Valley, Peru
Left city for the valley.  Stopped at about 4900 m for tea.  This was after stopping in the city at a market to stock up on products for the trip.  The products are all made from the coca leaf.  Yes the plant used to manufacture cocaine!  Well you can get just the leaf, cookies, hard candies, lollipops, coca sours (coca added to a Pisco Sour) and several kinds of toffee all made from coca!  They are supposed to help with altitude sickness!  Needless to say the store did a booming business!  Almost everyone on bus bought at least 2 types of 'product' and there were a couple of other buses stop while we were there.
The stop for tea was nice.  You can buy tea with a 'blend' of 3 things - mint, coca and chachacoma.  All natural of course!  Tasted not to bad, the mint was the strongest flavour!
A few stops along the way to see the other 'camel' type animal, the vicuna.  Related to the camel as are the llama and alpaca.  The vicuna has the finest wool of the 3 and goes for about $350 a kilo.
Stopped in Chivay for lunch.  Buffet, and as usual ate way too much!
Then to hotel.  By this time it is pouring rain, and we are supposed to have a hike!  Well hike cancelled but instead took a short walk to the town square, around the church yard and some back roads back to hotel.  Arrived soaking wet!  And cold.  
By time we got back the hotel had turned on the (very) small gas heaters in rooms.  Did not put out much heat.  Ended up in hotel lounge for happy hour, sitting around the fire.  Very nice.
Ate alpaca, a very popular meat.  Was very good.  It is a very fine grained meat and a pleasant taste.
Too bed early!  Again!


February 7, Arequipa, Peru
Bus was scheduled to depart at 10 pm but ended up being close to midnight!  
10 hours on the bus, but have to say quite comfortable.  Seats reclined a long way and still had a lot of leg room.
Arrived about 10 am and off to Hostal Solar!  Wow, what a great places.  Nice big clean rooms, with very nice sitting areas.
spent the rest of morning and early afternoon walking around the older part of the city.  All looks new and neat.  Most built since 1500 under Spanish.
Guide took us on a quick tour around the old part of the city.  Then headed for the monastery.  A huge place built in the 1500s and is still in use today.  There have been many reconstructions due to earthquakes but apparently the originality of the place has been retained.  The buildings were very nice to look at.  Very colourful with read geraniums.
Was surprised to find that the nun's rooms were as large as they were, and many had there own ovens and small kitchen.
Then just walked around the city.  Full of great doors and courtyards!
Early night!
February 6, on the overnight bus, Peru
Awake very early morning so sat by pool.  Very nice.  Just next door is a prickly pear cactus field.  This is used to attract the cochineal bug for its red dye.  Very lucrative crop. $400 per kilo for the powder.

Breakfast and then off to fly over Nasca Lines.  Amazing sight.  Many animals and human figures and also straight lines.  Look perfect from the air.  My pictures do not do them justice.  A few in plane were a bit green with all the tilting over the various marks. 

Then to Chauchilla Cemetery.  Here there are many tombs which were unfortunately robbed.  Some have been restored.  The people were buried in rooms underground, in the fetal position, facing east and with the items they would need in the next life.

Paracus 700 BC to 200 AD
Nasca about 300 BC to 700 AD
Chauchilla about 500 AD to 1200
Inca about 1300 AD to 1500
Spanish 1500 to 1821
Peru independence 1821

Also visited a pottery place that makes replica Nasca pottery.
Back to hotel for a rest, and happy hour!  Beers by pool while we waited for the late bus!
February 5, Nasca, Peru
Easy morning wandering around small fishing village.  Quiet and small.
Then into van.  Short drive to a Pisco distillery.  Interesting as they still crush the grapes with their feet, but have the feeling this is only done during the week long party they have during the harvest!  Pisco is an alcohol distilled from grapes.  
Tasted many of them, some good some not so good!  Pisco sours (Pisco, lime juice, and egg white blended with ice) have become the happy hour drink!
About another hour and a stop at an oasis, Huacalchina.  Here went dune bugging on some huge sand dunes!  Also got to try sand boarding.  Tried standing but spent most of my time on my ass.  I guess the snow boarding lesson of 6 years ago is lost!  And the 1 day on a board did not help.  Tried a couple of times on stomach,  much faster and a great ride!  As I was wearing sandals I did not have any brakes!  That was okay though, liked the speed!  Simple a board with velco straps and slightly up curved ends like a snow board.  A bit different but still fun, despite the sand getting everywhere!!!!!
Swim in pool after was great and made the 3 hour bus ride after more tolerable!
So flat!  With nothing growing and then green areas.  Water comes from wells.
Somewhere took wrong turn as crossed the Rio Grande river and were in Sacramento!

Stopped at the Nasca Lines tower along side of Pan American highway, just outside of Nasca. 
Short wander around Nazca, to the bank and to the grocery store.
Stayed in a hacienda type place, San Marcelo.  Very nice and very quiet!  Swimming pool as well.


February 4, Paracus, just outside of Pisco, Peru
Actually had a free morning so spent walking the streets around the hotel.  Just after lunch got a private bus to bus station to catch public bus.  At times standing room only.  Arrived at Pisco, then 30 minute to small fishing village of Paracus.  Very quiet place geared to fishing and tourists going to a nature preserve island just off the coast.  Had dinner and a Pisco Sour, which the area is famous.  The drive along coast on Pan American was very dry, maybe 2 mm rain each year.  
much sand and rocky mountains.  Most of the places there is no vegetation!  Not even weeds.  Found out later that there are 4 birds living on this type of land and some insects and lizards.  Not much but still interesting to look at!

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Ecuador 2010



February 3, Quito to Lima, Peru
Last day in Quito.  Hired Marco again to take us to the Cloud forest.  Stopped first at the Pululahua crater.  An almost extinct volcano.  Some steam activity has started.  about 400 m down to the floor of a huge crater.  All farms on the floor around a mini volcano in the middle of the crater.  There is a trail that winds up the wall of the volcano.  Quite a climb.  When we arrived a man was standing waiting for a woman (his wife?) who was carrying the load!  Typical in Ecuador.
Marco showed us various plants used for different purposes, mostly for curing some aliment.  There is one that is a hallucinogenic.  Coco of some sort.  Small dark berries, that have a very bright red colour to them.
Then to a reserve that is on the edge of the cloud forest area.  The hummingbirds were every where.  32 different species in the area, and if you watched for about 2 hours, you would be able to see about 18 species.  Also many people come to so a Crested Questzal.  We saw about 4 but could not get a good picture.  
Then on way back stopped at an Equator museum.  Many demonstrations about the effects of the magnets pulls.  Water on the equator flows straight out.  In the south in a clock wise direction.  
Also some strength is lost while standing on the equator.  Also some interesting displays of tribal homes and customs, including a tribe that used to practice head shrinking.
Still done now, but on animals.
Back to airport for 8.40 pm departure to Lima.

February 2, Galapagos to Quito, Ecuador
Up at 4.30 am for a 5.30 am departure from the boat.  As the Dutch girl said, this is not really a holiday when you have to get up that early!
A mixture of travel modes today.  Zodiac, truck taxi, walk, large bus, and a passenger ferry and plane.
Off to the Charles Darwin Research Centre, on Santa Cruz Island.  This is the home of 'Lonesome George', the giant tortoise that is the last of his species.  He has 2 new resident females of a similar species in the hopes of offspring.  Wait and see as he lived with 2 others for 20 years and nothing.  Apparently not a compatible species.  
This centre also has a large breeding centre for the different types of tortoises.  Dome, saddleback and Flat.
Then on bus to ferry to cross to the Island of Balta to catch the plane back to Quito.  A bit on the chaotic side, but made the flight.
Did not do much back in Quito.  Had about 5 pounds of clothes washed at laundry down street for $1.  Can't do it that cheap at home!  Life is good!  Washed, dried and neatly folded!
Dinner at local restaurant.  Very nice fish in lemon sauce.

February 1, Galapagos, Ecuador
Awake, sort of, at 5 am!!!  Off for a walk on Puerto Egas, a black sand beach.
Amazing as during walk a flycatch kept landing on people.  Their shoulders, fingers and even checking out their reflection in camera lenses!
More iguanas, sea lions, and fur seals.  But saw a sea turtle from a view point but best part was snorkeling while one was grazing on the sea bed floor!  This island had a salt mine in the 1920s but the guy went bankrupt when salt on mainland was discovered.
Then motored to Rabida Island for about 3 hours.  Most of the time frigate birds were riding the air wave from the boat.  This is a red sand beach.  Did a short walk around part of the island.  Many cactus loaded with flower.  Then for the afternoon snorkel.  This beach has many of the same kind of fish but while out there a few dolphins went swimming by!!!  Not worried by us in the water.  Tried to catch but.......  not a chance!

January 31, Galapagos, Ecuador
Another early rise!  At Chinese Hat for walk
saw a 1 day old sea lion pup on walk, as well as frigate birds, crabs.  Interesting as crabs are black when young and as they age and spend more time in sun they become very colorful.
A walk along beach and there are many turtle tracks going up the beach to nest.
Snorkel in deep water that was very clear.  Many colourful fish, sting rays, sea urchins.  Even saw an octopus being chased by several other small fish!
Boat made way to Bartolome Island.  The snorkeling here was good but not as clear.  Spotted 3 or 4 sleeping sharks.  Did not wake them!
Motored again for about 6 hours!  The water was very rough and there were a few people turning a bit green.  Many did not go to bed until after 9, which has been late, as that is when we anchored.




January 30, Galapagos, Ecuador
Up at 6.30 am for pickup for the 3 hour flight from Quito to Galapagos.  Airport is on Balta, but the town site is Santa Cruz on a different island.
Lunch on boat, the Pelikano, and off to walk and snorkel at Los Bachus beach.  The walk was great.  Nice golden coloured sand with many turtle tracks to nesting areas.  Saw 3 flamingos is a brackish lagoon.  Also many iguanas and sea lions.  Took way too many pictures which I later deleted.  Also saw many more during the days to follow.
The snorkeling was good, but not that clear of water.  Many fish and the beach was fairly busy.
The first night on the boat!  Room is small with bunk beds!  I ended up on the top bunk, which was also much smaller than the lower bunk.  Not a lot of head room either, but it is a bed.
The evening was spent watching the pelicans and sharks feeding around the boat.  Surprisingly the pelicans would stay in the water with the sharks circling around.  Some of the sharks were at least 2 meters.  

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Ecuador and Galapagos 2010


January 29, Quito, Ecuador


Booked a tour to Otavalo Market.  Apparently the largest remaining market in South America for native handicrafts. 
First stop was at small monument for the crossing of the Equator.  Interesting as there was a football field, including nets set up on the side street.
Then stopped at a biscuit shop.  The town is known for its biscuits.  There were still warm.  Dry but tasty.  Not sure how to describe.  Interesting that each small town has its claim to fame!  Greenhouses, orchids, dairy, biscuits and tequila!
Short stop at a farm.  The lane was very nice.  Long and tree lined, but with a mud bricked fence between each of the trees.
A nice little place with rooms for rent as well.  The place was started in mid 1500s.
Stopped for a drink at small shop along side of road and 3 ladies were bbqing 'rata', yes 'rata' is rat in Spanish.  At first a bit gross thinking about it, but actually did not smell too bad!  Skinned and gutted and put on a stick.  According to Marco the guide/driver these rats are caught in the wild  and the country rats are better tasting as they eat better, grasses and what ever else they eat!  Still did not try.  Marco like to eat rat!

The road, the Pan American highway, to the market is along and through many deep valleys.  Very green with hundreds of greenhouses along the way. 
The market was huge as it is Saturday.  A large square and many of the side streets with stalls.  Much beautiful items, mostly wool products, sheep, alpaca the most popular.  
Then visited a leather town.  Here many shops with all kinds of leather.  Was in one shop and tried on 1 jacket.  Ended up trying many!  Nice jackets for about $120.
The market is about 2 hours north of Quito.
January 28, Quito, Ecuador
Off to explore the old city!
Walked by The Casa de la Cultura after walking through a university.  Very nice with much building going on.  Turns out, Marco's kids go to this university.  Private, about $800 per month per person!
Went La Basilica built about 1890 of concrete and brick in the gothic style.  Great as was able to take this narrow, loose wooden walk way throught the attic above the main part of the church.  This lead to one of the towers where you could climb to the top.  Great views!  Added bonus was kids painted gothic enjoying some wine at the top!
Then to Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus.  A church that is done completely in gold leaf!  Quite nice.  But looks like there had been a fire.
Wandered into a market.  Seemed to be the metal bashing place.  Black smiths everywhere making metal gates.  Have not seen many of them for ages.  Marco the guide later told us that is the market where you can buy anything!  Most of the items stolen!  Which does explain why there seemed to be so many
Visited the grand plaza which is surrounded by the Government buildings, Municipal buildings and a hotel.  A very nice plaza with lots of people around.  Including the demonstration about something.  Never did figure it out.

Visited Sanfrancisco church as well.  Built in 1530s it is the oldest church in the city.  Pouring rain when left so caught a taxi to hotel.  $4 for 20 minute ride.
Had dinner at hotel where we got a free drink. A green warm drink made from the naracicha flower  (?).  Quite good.  I think the name is Carne lasa which does not make sense as carne is beef in Spanish.
The waiter learned our names and he did not forget.  Called me by name the morning after returning from Galapagos.
January 27, Quito, Ecuador
Got a little bit of sleep.  Up for coffee and a relax in the very nice court yard.  The guest house that took me in was very nice.  Small and quiet.
The woman at the front desk called GAP and got things straightened out, including a van pick up to take me back to the hotel I went to originally last night.  
Checked into hotel and went off for a walk.  Quito is at about 2800 meters.  Surprisingly you can feel the difference.  Always seem to be trying to catch breath.  Not bad but have to be careful as occassionaly when walk a bit too fast I did feel light headed.  Quito is surrounded by mountains which always had clouds rolling over them.  Very pretty.

Watched 3 on 3 volleyball type game in one park.  Many people watching.  Different slightly as the net was much higher than volleyball.  Interesting as it seems most Ecuadorians are shorter than I am, so they have higher to jump.  But this game does not seem to have the spiking!  Maybe the net height is the reason!
Wandered around the area for a couple of hours, but was so tired went back to hotel for a nap.  Took it easy for the rest of the day.
Jayne arrived later that night, talked a bit.


January 24 to January 26, Somewhere over Pacific
Got taken out for dinner at local pub by friends and given a new hoodie!  A hint that good riddance and stay away?  Not sure!  But still very nice of them!
Up extra early to catch plane to Sydney.  Just over an hours flight.  
On plane to Santiago with stop in Auckland.  Just short of 3 hours to Auckland and then almost 11 hours to Santiago.
Crossed the Date line, so repeating the 26.  Interesting to leave in early morning, arrive in New Zealand late in afternoon, and then see the see come up not too long later.
Arrived in Santiago about noon, and had a 3 hour wait for next flight to Quito, Ecuador.
6 hour flight to Quito.  Arrived about 9 pm.  Off to hotel, no reservation! And voucher had different hotel name, so in taxi to that place.  No reservation here either.  Too tired to do anything, so had a beer and off to bed!