Argentina to Uruguay 2011

March 26, Salto, Uruguay

Bus tour in morning around Montevideo.  Around the city centre and by the port.  This out to the suburbs.  By several very nice homes where all the rich people live.  House for about $300,000.

Stopped a the large local park that was donated by one of the former residence.  There are many bronze statues all over the city!

Then a 6 hour bus ride to Salto.  Not too bad, as bus was very comfortable.  Mostly an agricultural area.  Many cattle and sorgum fields.  The area looks fairly prosperous, and according to some reading it is!  Arrived about 6, checked in and then went for dinner and then short walk down the street and along the river.  Did enjoy some more wine tonight, A San Juan cabernet sauv.  Very good!

And then to bed!  

March 25, Montevideo, Uruguay

Walked around Colonia in morning.  Great little town with a lot of Spanish and Portuguese influence.  Visited the old city wall, lighthouse and some other buildings.

The city is full of very old vehicles.  Some that still run and some that do not appear to have moved in a long time!  Still very interesting.

Then 3 hour bus ride to Montevideo, the Capital city of Uruguay.  The population of the country is about 3.5 million, and 1.5 million in this city.  The hostel here is somewhat better, but not much.  They at least have a bar, with cheap drinks that they free pour the booze!  Went out for expensive dinner, $40, salmon with shrimp sauce and huge glass of red wine, tannat is the favoured grape!  Very good.

March 24, Colonia de Sacramento, Uruguay

Lazy morning, left on boat to Uruguay.  Nice ride, but unable to get outside to watch.  The river is very muddy looking with lots of wind and waves.  

Turns out there was a huge screw up in reservations so ended up separated in 2 awful hostels, not a great way to start a tour!  By the time this got sorted out and we had dinner it was very late!

March 23, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Did not do much.  Sorted out some things to mail home.  Did get my flights home changed.  Fly back on July 4, I could not get a flight as they were booked up for almost a week earlier!  Oh well, that is ok!

Did some research on Central America, specifically Panama and Costa Rica.

Had a short meeting with the new tour group, as that tour started today.  Then out for dinner at a traditional Argentinian BBQ restaurant!  Huge place.  $25 for 1/2 litre of wine, huge tenderloin steak and potatoes!  The steak was great!

Argentina 2011

March 22, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Travel day today.  Heard the airport in Buenos Aires was closed yesterday as the traffic control was down, but we made it ok!  Nice as a direct flight of only 3 1/2 hours.  Staying in hostel for 2 nights.  A very busy place and at times loud.  But the location is super as it is on the main pedestrian mall.  

Went out for dinner at a London Pub with a couple from the Ushuaia tour.  London Pub was not very Londonish!  But the food was great!

March 21, Ushuaia, Argentina

Caught a van out to the Tierra del Fuego National park.  Here we caught the local tourist train to take us right into the park.  Then started a walk of about 12 km.  Very nice walking in a forest and along the coast.  Very different than Torres, as this is more forested and close to the beach.  Stopped for lunch on rocky point.  Sitting there and a carcara joined us.  Looking for handouts, but did not get any!  Beautiful day until waiting for the ride back and it poured rain.  A different company picked us up and delivered us to the right company van as it approached.  Nice, but still got a bit wet.  By the time we got back into town the sun was shining and the streets were dry!

Out for a farewell dinner.  All you can eat at a 'meat' place!  This is the type of restaurant that cooks the meat on a charcoal fire and also has the whole lambs on a spit!  So good!  Lots of fun!

March 20, Ushuaia, Argentina

Up and off on Beagle Channel cruise.  Used a catarmaran with 2 engines.  The boat was almost full.  Headed out into the channel and stopped at a small island for a short walk.  A reserve area but they ran the boat up on the beach and dropped the gangway.  Nice views of city from island.  Then to an island that is full of sea elephants.  Very smelly and loud!  Then to a colony of cormorants, and again very smelly.  Was surprised at how close they got to the islands with the boats.

In the afternoon headed off to the Naval/ Prison museum.  Built in about 1902, for prisoners shipped here, manly to inhabit the area as a claim to the area.  Huge prison with about 5 different hallways coming out of a central area, like a wheel.  2 of the halls had many displays about some of the prisoners, one was 16.  Then one of the halls had not been developed.  I could not survive as it was just too cold!

Short walk along harbour and back to hotel.

Off for dinner and then to Irish pub for drinks.  Always fun!

Chile 2011

March 19, Ushuaia, Argentina

12 hour bus ride today starting at 7 am!  And back in Argentina again!  Short stop at abandoned sheep station.

Crossed the Magellan straight on a local ferry.  Only took about 30 minutes.  Not that big of a ferry, 2 buses and maybe 4 semi trailers.

The current and wind were quite strong going across.

March 18, Punta Arenas, Chile

Nice lazy start to the day!

Headed off and walked along the beach area.  The boardwalk is very nice with tributes to Magellan but the beach has a lot of garbage on it!  Too bad as they have done a great job on the walk way.  Even the pedestrian bridge is boat shaped!

Then turned toward the city.  Not to bad as the streets are laid out on the grid, but is confusing as the beach curves around, so some very strange intersections.

Some of the houses are very small, and some are very brightly painted.

Walked by the catherdral and around the market stalls in the main square!  Very nice place with the Magellan statue in the middle.  The stalls are all the same, small wagons.

The buildings are very well done in the city centre!  Late 1900s mostly.

Stopped at a small cafe for some real coffee!  Way too much nescafe, even this morning!

Then headed off to the Braun Mendoza mansion.  This is a late 1800s rich sheep ranchers house that has been turned into a museum.  Beautiful house!  2 full stories with the main living areas on the main floor and I assume the bedrooms upstairs (could not go up).

Then headed off to the naval museum.  Great video shown by a sailor in 1929 sailing from Germany around the horn.  Also many navy/naval displays.  A little bit on Shackleton but not really much.

Rained a little bit, so headed back to hotel for a nap, but did not fall asleep!  Too much sleep last night I guess!

Went out to the casino bar which is on the 11th floor.  Great views, even from the toilet!

March 17, Punta Arenas, Chile 

Up at 7 am as have to have breakfast and pack up the camp.  Did not take long.  Couple of hours and all the tents were down, including the cook tent.

On the road by 10 am and into Puerto Natales by 12 to drop up some camp gear and have lunch!  Went to a small cafe and had 2 cups of REAL coffee!  I could not drink the nescafe this morning.

About a 3 hour drive along more gravel roads we arrived at the Mellagan penguin colony!  Only a few around, some of them just loosing their last baby feathers.  Very cute, just standing there in the wind and cold!  Neat as saw one peeking out of the burrow!

Had about 1 hour before we headed out for dinner.  Went to a restaurant around the corner.  I had salmon and mashed potatoes.  $20 and that includes 2 huge pieces of salmon and a beer!  Very good.

Beat so headed back to hotel.

Chile 2011

March 16, Torres del Paine National Park, near Puerto Natales, Chile 

Another sleep in!  So nice.

Got a ride from Peggy to the dock where we boarded a catamaran to cross Lago Pehoe.

Peggy is a 480 hp twin turbo diesel 'truck'.  Really a container truck with seats installed.  Actually does not ride too bad, even on the many miles of washboard gravel roads!

Today only a 15 km hike up the Francis valley to a lookout over a river and many smaller glaciers.  The hike took about 4 1/2 hours.  Sore muscles and all!

The wind was howling!  Actually blew me off the trail a couple of time.

Also when we had to cross a suspension bridge the wind had the bridges swaying on its own with out anyone on it!  Apparently the wind was not too strong today!

A very interesting walk.  Went by a lake where the wind was whipping up the water and blowing it on land, a very green valley, and through a couple of forested areas.  Disappointed as the wind was so strong, we did not even see many birds!

Got back to the dock and went to the bar!  Pisco sours, 2 for 1 2,500 pesos ($5).  Great way to finish the walking for this stay.  Muscles still very sore!

March 15, Torres del Paine National Park, near Puerto Natales, Chile 

Not sure what happened but actually slept in until about 8 am!  wow!  

Also I have some very sore and stiff muscles!  Ouch!

Took a short 2 km walk down the road to see the Salto Chico (small water fall).

Then got a ride in Peggy (the big yellow truck, not a bus) to the Salto Grande (large water fall)  Very nice as well.

Then another guy and I decided to walk to another look out (Mirador Cuerrios)  On the way there we walked through a flock of guanacos!  Very impressive.  We did not move and they walked between us.  This walk was only about 1 hour, and gave us a very good view of the towers and the Horns!  Catch was we had to walk back to the camp while the others got a ride!

This day was only about 16 km walk!  Mostly flat but there were some hills, but still very much easier than yesterday.  

I had hoped it would work out the stiffness, but I think I am just stiffer!

Tonight borrowed a blanket from the 'truck' (as we are supposed to call Peggy, according to the driver) as I nearly froze last night.

But tonight the cook made some mulled wine!  mmmmm very good and also I am sure it provided enough warmth for the whole night!

March 14, Torres del Paine National Park, near Puerto Natales, Chile 

Off at a very early start at 6.30 am!  Crazy!!!!  

But only had a 2 hour drive to the Park.  Not too bad.  But along the way saw many guanaco an rheas (related to the emu).  Interesting that there are so many guanaco as they were at one point considered on the verge of extinction!  There were many rheas as well in flocks.  Great to see

Arrived at the park and were dropped off to catch a van.  This van would take us to the start of the Torres (tower) hike.  But the van had to cross a bridge that only had about 1 inch to spare on either side!  The sides of the van showed that someone had had some closer than wanted encoutnters with the side of the bridge.

The hike to the look out for the 3 granite towers took about 3 hours, one way!  Much of it up, and a lot of it fairly steep!  And no was not not up both ways!  Tried to stay with the group but they are power hikers so just gave up! But when they stopped for breaks I would catch up with them.

The tallest tower, the left one from the view point, is 2850 meters.  The view was great with the glacier and the small lake at the base of the towers.

Part of the hike took us across a few rock slides!  I am sure that we would not be able to do that in North America!

This was the first night of camping in the Pehoe camp ground!  Actually nice having a camp fire, it has been a while.  Even better as the crew had set up the tents while we were away!

Great meal, as there is a now a cook with us!  More 5 star camping.

Rented a sleeping bag at $10/night.  3 times the price of the Peru one!

Night was cold and exhausted from walk.  Probably saved somewhat by the use of the walking sticks I have been carrying!  This must be the 3rd use!

March 13, Puerto Natales, Chile 

Late start at 10 am and a short drive to border, exit Argentina and enter Chile.  Did not take long.  Guide telling us that it can take hours. 

Then short drive to Puerto Natales so arrived mid afternoon!  This is a very small town along the shores of a bay!  Not sure but many miles to open ocean.

Spent the day wandering around, shopping for treats for the camping in the National park.

Argentina 2011

March 12, El Calafate, Argentina 

On tour today at 8 am!  That means on the bus and moving!  Oh nice to be back on tour!  NOT!!!!

But it will be good.  

The tour headed out of town on gravel roads for about 25 km.  Not many cars around!  Nice as along the way saw a black breasted buzzard eagle, the local emu and many rabbits.

Stopped for coffee at small place and they had a guanaco as a pet!  Actually inside the restaurant!  Very cute.  They are related to the llama, alpaca and camel.

Then on to Los Glaciers National Park.

Stopped along the road and we went on a short walk down to the Lake Rico.  This is the lake that floods with the Perito Moreno Glacier when it hits the land on the opposite side of the lake.  

This gave us the first view of the glacier.  We are 8 km away and it looks huge!  Walked maybe for 1 hour along the lake.  

Then onto bus and to the view point over the glacier.  Very nice walkways providing many angles to watch the glacier.  This glacier advances about 2 m each day so there are many pieces falling off the front and into the lakes.  Big splashes and big waves follow loud cracks as the ice falls!  Saw a few small ones but apparently did not see the big one.  Some of the trails hide the glacier behind trees! 

Then onto a boat for a close up view of the glacier.  It is huge.  About 50 m above the water level.  The pictures do not do it justice.
Dinner was with some of the tour group at a roasted lamb restaurant.  The lamb is roasted, split, over charcoal.  It was very good and was so tender!

March 11, El Calafate, Argentina 

Spent the day wandering around the city again.  

Hired a taxi and went out to Ceuvas de Walichi, caves which have paintings dated back 4500 years, they think!  About 8 km out of town.

Very interesting, similar to Australian aboriginal art and surprising that natural paints can last that long.  

Again the guide did not speak much for English but did a great job with sign language and our limited Spanish got the message.  The site had also reproduced several paintings located in other areas of the southern part of Chile.

Then walked to the Nimez lagoon, a nature reserve located on the edge of town.  Here they are many birds and horses!  Horses are not supposed to be there, but they do get in!

Nice walk, but very windy!  Saw some geese, carcara, coots, black headed swans, ducks and snipes.

Also went to the Archeological museum.  Learned something about dinosaurs but have forgotten it.  Not a bad place but way too much information for me to absorb.

Also went to the Glacier Museum.  This was great.  Interesting displays, movies and even a 3D movie of the glaciers in the area.

Had a very late dinner after a meeting with the tour guides for this part of the trip.  Nice couple, Australian and a trainee from Chile.

March 10, El Calafate, Argentina 

Up fairly early to get to airport for 9 am flight.  3 hours later we arrived.  Flew over many snow capped mountains.  

Airport is way out of town so caught a taxi.  The land is fairly barren.  Short grasses and a few shrubs.  The city is not that big at about 8.000, and situated on the lake Argentina.

Spent the afternoon wandering around the main street.  Doing some window shopping but also went to the local museum next door to hostel.

The woman did not speak much if any English but she showed us around the small museum.  In some places she was using sign language to describe some of the photos, but ended up laughing so hard she would loose her thoughts.  Pretty funny!

Sun shone, but temperature still cold at about 12 to 15 degrees.  The wind makes is feel fairly cold.

March 9, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Did not do much, got up, had coffee at small shop around corner from hotel as was too early for breakfast at hotel.

Went to airport and got back to hotel in Buenos Aires about 6 pm. 

Out for dinner and then back to hotel as have an early start tomorrow!

Chile 2011

March 8, Santiago, Chile 

Out of condo and into taxi to bus station.  Caught the bus back to Santiago.

Found a hotel, bit old and showing age, but fairly good location and relatively cheap.  Cheaper than the 1st place we stopped at.

Off walking around.  Took the funicular up the mountain to the Statue of the Virgin Mary.  Nice views of city, but the mountains around the city are in a haze.  Along the way stopped at street stall and had a 'completo'.  Very popular here, places everywhere to buy!  It is a hot dog/sausage smothered ( and over flowing with stuff) guacamole, tomatoes, mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard, and many other unidentifiable things!  I had the Italiano, with guacamole and tomatoes!  Really very good, and for $2, including drink, good deal.  Also it is the first time I have seen Canada Dry ginger ale!  Nice change.

Walked into the old city and the Armas Square.  Lots of great looking buildings around, most from the late 1700 and early 1800.

Walked by the parliament buildings through the square.  Very nice, round area, flanked by large flag poles!

Also had a photography display on the street showing the destruction and reconstruction after the earthquake in Feb 2010.

Took forever to find a restaurant with outdoor seating, except for the 'completo' places, but did find one!  A grill type place

March 6 & 7, Vina del Mar (near Santiago), Chile 

Did not do much at all these days.  Took a walk down the beach for a bit, and did a quick tour around the mall.  Just like any other mall, but with different stores!

And as usual, pisco sour for happy hour and then wine for dinner.  

Great meals!  Nice to have home cooked meals.

Chile 2011

March 5, Vina del Mar (near Santiago), Chile 

Another lazy morning, but did get out to get hair cut!  Nothing funny about this cut, just the same old process!

Caught the local bus to Concon, a small resort type place about 30 minutes by local bus.  Drove along the coast.  Very nice, mostly rocks and cliffs with large condos, hotels, and restaurants along the way.

Went for a late lunch, early dinner at friends favourite restaurant.  But catch was had to wait about 1 1/2 hours!  Was very good food, but I think the best part was that met people in line and at table next to us.  A little bit of English but that did not seem to matter.  People very friendly and more than willing to help with food things!  

Took a short walk along the beach and the various stalls selling items when got back to Vina del Mar.  Saturday night and lots of people just out walking along.

March 4, Vina del Mar (near Santiago), Chile 

Very lazy morning, lots of coffee and food.  Then early afternoon caught the bus to Valparaiso.  Ended up on the scenic tour one that took us up the hill a bit and then back down to the port area.  Amazing as the street followed the contours of the cliff around.  And houses are built right on the cliff.  Many with extensions to back that are supported by stilts!  Not sure how they survive the many earthquakes they apparently have here.  

Walked along the port area and then caught a tram ride up the cliff and walked around a fairly artsy area.  Many colourful houses and some very good graffiti art work.

Stopped at a small B & B and had a Pisco Sour and enjoyed the view over looking the port and the Vina del Mar area.

Subway back and then dinner.  It is a tough life as the last couple of nights we have not got up from the dinner table until about 10.30!  Very laid back....

Chile 2011

March 3, Vina del Mar (near Santiago), Chile 

Great place.  Over looking the beach!  Able to watch the world from the top floor.

Interesting as the building is undergoing major repairs as a result of the large earthquake last year.  Looks like a disaster area!  But still great as right on the beach!

Interesting as the beach patrol helicopter flew by, and actually were looking down on it!

Took a walk into the city centre.  Very pleasant, laid back and relaxed.

Stopped on way back and went to a small restaurant near by.  Maybe at most 10 chairs.  2 course meal and glass of wine (very full) for $5!  Great food, nice people!  Can not beat that!

Got an excellent dinner in condo, into more Pisco sours and of course wine with dinner!

Early night tonight!

March 2, Vina del Mar (near Santiago), Chile 

Lazy day waiting for plane to Santiago at almost 6 pm.

Easy 2 hour flight, and then when leaving airport ran into guy from Peru tour waiting to catch his plane to San Francisco.  Great to catch up with him.

We then caught the local bus to Santiago, and that was a short 15/20 minute ride.  Then almost immediately onto the bus to Vina del Mar.  1 1/2 hours and we were there.  Got off at the bus terminal to an almost empty place!  1taxi!  We took and arrived at condo, no problem.  Wine and chat until about 2 am.  Very late night!

Argentina 2011

March 1, Buenos Aires, Argentina 

Caught the bus to La Boca, another area of the city.  Known for its colourful buildings.  Apparently the people used old boat paint the brighten up their houses.  Looks great, but with the statutes it sure is very touristy.  Stopped for a snack and drink and watch a tango demonstration.  This is the area where tango was started.

Got back on bus to the next stop, which is where we smelled all the stalls cooking sausages and other beef (?).  Had a sausage.  Tasted great!

Walked over to the San Telmo area next.  Narrow little streets with many antique stores and shopping centres.  Streets here are cobble stoned which makes it attractive.

Walked along the street and ended up in San Martin Park, a park at the other side of the main square.  Nice park, with good views onto part of the harbour.

Back to hotel for dinner and then out for  drink.  Watched another tango demonstration on a street corner, and while i was there a woman tried to pick my pocket.  Caught her before she got anything, and besides she was in the wrong pocket.  Watched her for a bit and turns out she was 1 of 3 working the area.  Not a cop in sight.  And have not seen many if any since here.  Not like Peru where they were everywhere!