Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Belize 2011


June 5,  Caye Caulker, Belize
Took a sailing/snorkeling trip today.  Not much wind so ended up motoring most of the way there and sail assisted motor on the way back.  First stop was some coral and grassy areas where there were  2 manatees.  Amazing to see them so close.  They looked like they were sleeping, anyway they were not too bothered by us being in the water.  They are huge!
Then the next stop was a guided snorkel.  Saw a couple of green turtles and a huge eel!  I just wish my pictures did them justice.  But still great to see.  The guide took us to a small coral/rock tunnel that we could dive/swim through.  Very fun.  This was the Hol Chan Marine reserve.
The next stop was to swim with the sharks!  Nurse sharks, apparently harmless and maybe so as came back with a parts still attached!  There was a feeding frenzy at the side of the boat.  Also a bunch of sting rays.  Guess this is why it is called Shark Ray Alley.
Also a huge black grouper seemed to like to hang out underneath the boat.  Not afraid at all and looked like he had a huge mouth that could have swallowed us whole!  Bit spooky!
Was a great trip, and made even better by the rum punches provided for the trip back.  Funny thing, they taste great when you have them but they do have a punch that you can feel the next day!



June 4,  Caye Caulker, Belize
Not a bad day.  Caught a boat to the main dock, then another ferry to Caye Caulker, only 30 minutes away.
Found a hotel, cheap Belize $25 (CDN$12)  but not very nice.  So made reservation in another hotel just around the corner.  This one is $40 but with private bathroom and super staff.  And very very clean.  On the water too!
Then headed off to the Lazy Lizard.  A bar built on the Split where you can drink and appears that it is the place to be.  Cheap beers and burgers.  Belize$4 for beer, the same price I paid for beer at store on San Pedro!  Amazing, prices here are anywhere from 1/2 to 1/3 the price of the other island.  This is also much more laid back.  As you walk off the dock the island motto is displayed in mosaic "Go Slow!'  To funny and they seem to follow the motto everywhere.
Spent the afternoon at the Lazy Lizard where I met a Canadian guy and a Australian couple.  Convinced them to do a sailing/snorkeling tour all day tomorrow!  Nice way to spend the afternoon!

Friday, June 3, 2011

Belize 2011


June 3,  San Pedro, Belize
Lazed all day long.  But did take a short walk to the bird watching tower.  The one with the sign 'beware of 3 crocs!"





June 2,  San Pedro, Belize
Went diving today!  2 dives, first at Sunny Point, about 80 feet, second at Windmill point about 60 feet, 45 minutes each.
Was great to get back into water.  First dive great as swam through at small cave/cavern.  Coral banks are about 20 feet high.  Not alot of color but lots of fish and many types of flowing coral.  Very nice.
On second dive, saw a green turtle and at least 10 conch.  Live ones!  Just very large snails.



June 1,  San Pedro, Belize
Walked north for about 2 hours along the beach.  Many large private homes, for sale.  All built along the beach.  The beach no good for swimming,  very shallow and full of sea grass.  Nice as the road is mostly along the beach.
May 31,  San Pedro, Belize
Went on a fishing, snorkeling, beach BBQ trip today.  We were supposed to catch lunch but not a lot of luck so the guides went spear fishing for our lunch.  Other boats around us catch barracuda but not us!  Then the guides cooked the fish (snapper) with lots of vegetables.  Was very good!
Then went snorkeling at Mexico reef.  This is a reef that is just off shore from the hotel.  Was great as there was at least 6 sting rays around.  Lots of coral as well, not much for color but still lots.  Many fish around too.

Belize 2011


May 30,  San Pedro, Belize
Nice relaxing start to the day!  Again.  I could get used to this!
But borrowed a bike and rode into town.  Great as along the beach. It is the major road and mode of transport here.  Even though the tides are not that big there is still enough hard sand to ride on, but there is a well worn path along the way!  Very nice, some very nice homes with many for sale!  Also some nice resorts overlooking the water.
The sand in places is a fine white powder!  And the water is very warm but most of the way there is sea grass growing everywhere!
Took about 2 1/2 hours, a long ride, and some of it in soft sand!  But arrived and took a bit of a ride around.  The airport seems to be in the middle of town.  Lots of shops, restaurants and hotels.  Had lunch and headed back.  Only took 1 1/2 hours as stuck to the road.  Dirt/gravel and full of pot holes.  Met 1 couple that traded in their golf cart for bikes.  They said it was faster and easier.  Golf carts is the main vehicle on the roads.  Have to admit, going just as fast on bikes as people are in golf carts, just a bit more effort!
Nice to get out and about the place.
May 29,  San Pedro, Belize]
Nice lazy start to the day.  Lots of coffee, then breakfast and then orientation meeting for the hotel.
Then walked the 15 minute bike ride to the local store.  Took about 45 minutes, and it was fairly hot.  Lots of lizards.
Turns out the place delivers for nothing!  Bonus
I walked back along the beach.  Many places for sale and many new places going up.  
Not many people around.  Must be only about 20 people staying at this hotel.  Not a big one but still not many people.  Close to being more staff than guests!
Went for a swim  in the Caribbean.  Very nice.  Water is very warm and very salty.  The beach along here is  has very nice white sand.  Some of it is so fine it is like powder.  Catch is the water is full of sea grass.   Not many people in swimming.
Relaxed, read and napped for rest of afternoon.
Interesting resort.  The place is basically shut down by 9.30 pm.  Very quiet.  Well guarded though, 2 security guys and 2 security dogs!



May 28,  San Pedro, Belize
Up for an 8 am start but the tour guy did not show up until 9!  Long wait.
The tour was a trip about 1 hour out of Belize City to a a cave where we walked for about 30 minutes and then spent about 30 minutes floating through the cave and then another 30 minutes floating down the river to the starting point.  Very interesting.  Apparently this cave was used by the Mayans as part of a ceremony of moving into the afterlife, which they called the underworld.
River very low so had to push over some rocks and do a fair bit of paddling.  Amazing as wedged in the roof of the cave was a huge log.  it was about 6 feet over our heads.
After lunch were driven to the boat terminal  to catch the boat to San Pedro.  Just caught it in time.  1 1/2 hours later and a stop at Caye Cauker, made it to San Pedro.
Then into a taxi to another dock to catch another boat.  This boat would take us to the resort.
A long day with lots of different modes of transport!  Car, foot, inner tube, water taxis (3), taxi.
Arrived and just relaxed.
May 27,  Belize City, Belize
Up at 7 am, another early morning, for the shuttle to Belize City.  After about 2 hours arrive at the border.  Fairly chaotic.  Trucks parked everywhere.  Easy process to leave Guatemala, except the officers asked for 20 quetzales, the local money (about $2.50) for an exit visa.  No one was paying so I did not either.   Apparently they will try, but it is not an 'official' payment.
Then after about 2 1/2 hours arrived at boat terminal in Belize City.  Caught a taxi to a guest house.  Interesting as it is run by what seems to be a Chinese family.
Walked around a bit and then had lunch at the park nearby.  There were many food shacks, but only 1 was open.  Had a great chicken burger, but turned out the chicken was flaked and in BBQ sauce.  Actually very good.  Ended up talking to a guy that was just hanging around waiting for someone.  He had (past tense) a few acres of farm land but he had lost it in a shady deal.  So sad!  But he seemed to believe that things would work out.  He had also applied for a job and had not yet heard anything about it.  Later I met him again and he was so happy that he had received a text message that he got the job.  Funny as he was so excited about it he had to show me the message.
Went out for dinner at what turned out to be the local bar.  The bartender did say that they had a happy hour and the place turned into a night club.  We thought we went early enough but I guess not!  Lots of people there by the time we finished eating!
So different to hear English spoken all the time!   It has been a while since English is the main language!  End of January!!

Poptun to Tikal, Guatemala 2011


May 26,  Flores, Guatemala
Got a 6 am pick up for a tour to Yaxha ruins.  Only 1 1/2 hours in taxi, over mostly paved roads but there was some gravel.  And the last bit was gravel.  But since we left at 6 am, arrived shortly after 7, but park not open until 8.  Lucky restaurant not far away so got some coffee (the first) and some breakfast   But as we drove into the parking lot at the restaurant you could hear the air coming out of the front tire!  Must have been cut by rock!  Well the driver changed the tire to one of those space saver, but it was low as well.  He did pump it up with a hand pump, a couple of times.  
The park was deserted except for the guards, cleaners and us.  Spent a couple of hours walking around the park.  Able to climb most of the temples.  This is a fairly large site as well, although not as big as Tikal, just as nice.  This one is built on a river, whereas there is no water nearby Tikal.  They have  done a great job reconstructing some of the temples but the best part is that the signage is super!  Lots of information about each temple and part, even if in Spanish was able to work out some of it.





Back to Flores, no problem even on that tire!
May 25,  Flores, Guatemala
Relaxing start to the day!  Very nice after yesterday!  Caught a public mini bus to Flores at 11.30 am, and it was on time!  It only took 1 1/2 hours as full of school kids so did not have to stop too many times.  Spent the afternoon wandering around Flores and took it easy.  Checked out other tours and how to get to Belze.
May 24,  Tikal,  Guatemala
4.30 am start.  Ugly.  And then a walk to the Tikal site.  The hotel is just on the edge of the park.  Very nice and only took about 1 hour to walk, part of it in the dark to get to a temple where we were supposed to be able to watch the sunrise, but by the time we got to the top the sun was well up!  No problem as it was also very foggy so could not even see the temple that was just down the path.  Interesting looking at the areas after walking through most of it in the dark!  Amazing place.  Monuments/temples range from 400 BC to about 1500 AD.  Some of the temples even have 3 layers of building that have been built over the top of previous buildings.
Walked/toured abound the site until about 10 and then spent 3 hours wandering.  A huge complex with many different squares and temples. The temples are built in different styles.  Many have been restored within the last 10 to 15 years.  The ones that have not been restored are just large piles of dirt and rocks.  Apparently they are build with dirt and rocks as the many part and then covered with cut stones made of lime.  Different than pyramids, these are just temples not tombs.  The Mayan tombs seem to be in caves.
Very hot so went back to hotel for a swim.  Then back for 2 more hours about 4.30 pm.  Not another person around, even the guards at the gate were gone!  Very nice to be able to wander around most of the site without seeing anyone else.
Long day in the heat.
May 23,  Tikal, Guatemala
2 1/2 hour mini bus ride from hotel to Santa Elena.  And that is to travel 100 km.  Turns out the bus picks up and drops off people all the way along the route!  Very interesting.  It was full but not over flowing.
Arrived in Santa Elena and decided to continue on to Tikal Park and a hotel that is just outside the park gate.  Only had to wait for 1/2 hour and got on another minibus.  This stopped at the local market and waited for more people to show up!  This one was full before we left!  Very full with people, kids and goods purchased.  Very busy market with seller with cold drinks, peanuts, dry goods coming to the windows to sell you stuff!  Very interesting.  But very hot sitting there.
This trip took 1 1/2 hours to go 50 km.
Arrived at hotel hot and sweaty so went for swim and had lunch delivered to the pool.  Very nice.
The pool has many trees around complete with many spider monkeys.  Including a couple of young ones that appeared to be playing.
May 22,  Poptun, Guatemala
Took a tour to the Naj Tunich caves.  These are the caves that were discovered about 1975 and contain many Mayan paintings and many tombs.  The cave is also a ceremonial cave.  Our tour guide was only Spanish speaking so there was a bit of hand talking, pointing and also trying interpret the many signs (Spanish)  But still able to pick up some.  Many tombs in the cave, walled up with the rocks that are in the cave.  There are actually 2 caves. Able to see the actual tombs and ceremonial fire pit but not the original paintings.  These have been replicated in another cave.
It took about 1 hour to drive there over some very narrow, windy and rocky roads.  The area also has been almost completely clear cut!  All by a machete!  They seem to cut some of the jungle, trees for fire wood, and then burn off the rest!  Planting corn and grass mostly.  The women will wear traditional clothes but the men are dress almost like Alberta cowboys!  Hats, jeans and boots.  Have actually seen a couple of saddle shops!
Turns out the caves are only 8 km from the Belize border.
Got back to hotel mid afternoon, so spent the rest of the day relaxing, wandering around the hotel/farm and visiting with 3 young guys that have just come off a 6 day trek in the jungle to El Mirador, the highest Mayan temple.  They were still very excited.
Interesting day with many different things.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Rio Dulce to Poptun, Guatemala -






May 21,  Rio Dulce, Guatemala
Off this morning for a Rain forest walk!  The walk turned out to be on the land owned by the hotel.  Not much of a rain forest as the ground is very dry.  The guide, Emilio seemed to know his stuff, but he was very much into stopping global warming.  But even with his political statements he was very good.  Great walk as he pointed out and described the various trees and vines along the way.  Amazing as many have some medicinal properties that the natives have used for years!  A drug store in the back yard.
A few hanging bridges to cross, a hill to climb to a museum and a lookout tower (designed to look like a Mayan temple).  Great views of the river and lake as well as the huge rubber plantation on the property.
Then back to hotel for a quick swim and then off on the boat to the bus depot.  Caught the bus to Poptun, about 100 km away.  Then into a tuk tuk taxi for a ride to the hotel.  This is a farm that has many rooms for rent.  Organic with lots of homemade goodies!  May never leave.  The bread is awesome!  Hacienda Ixobel!  Great place, very warm welcome and is managed  by a guy from New York who arrived 19 years ago on his way to South America.  He has not made it to South America!  But have to admit I am not sure about the guy wandering around the hotel with a rifle!  And I do not think he is hunting.  Will have to see what is up tomorrow.
May 20,  Rio Dulce, Guatemala
Did a boat tour of the Rio Dulce.  Left about 9.30 and went to the main dock and then out to the Fort of San Felipe.  Protecter for the Spanish.  Not a big fort but interesting to see from the water.
Then headed toward Livingston.  Apparently you can only get to here by boat.  A shocker as it is more black people than Guatemalan.   I had forgot this fact.
The Rio Dulce river runs between Lakes Isabel and ?? and runs through Lake ?? to the Caribbean Coast.  The village of Livingston is not that big.  Took about 10 minutes to walk the main street from the dock to the beach,  The beach here was not that great looking, apparently you must travel a bit further to get to the nice beaches.
Lots of boat traffic.  Seems to be the way to travel.  We went by a couple of bird islands (lots of birds) and a beautiful water lily area.  Then stopped briefly at the hot springs.  These run into the river.  We stopped 2 times, once on the way to Livingson and once on the way back.  The first time I did not realize where the hot springs were.  But tested the water on the return trip.  Really hot!  They have rocked an area off.  Much to hot and humid here to enjoy hot springs.  Even the pool at the hotel is too warm!

Friday, May 20, 2011

Antigua to Semuc Champey then to Rio Dulce, Guatemala 2011


May 19,  Rio Dulce, Guatemala
Up very early for a 7.15 am start.  30 minute ride to the town of Lanquin, and then 5 hours of traveling to get to Rio Dulce.  This included 3 hours on gravel roads similar to forestry roads
and just as narrow.  Actually got stopped for a bit as 2 trucks had to take a lot of time to meet on the road, and did get hung up on each other.  
got off bus from guest house and guy recognized my COSA t shirt.  Turns out he taught at Lake Country about 10 years ago.  Amazing as we are in a very small town in the middle of Guatemala!  Such a small world.
May 18,  Semuc Champey, Guatemala
People here start their days early.  Movement started about 5.30 am, as starting to get light!  I was up at 6 am.
Took a cave tour this morning.  Neat as walked through limestone caves holding a candle.  Sometimes had to swim.  Water a bit cool but still an neat experience.
Walked/swam for maybe a swim.  A few bats in the cave and many limestone stalactites and stalagmites.  I think this part of  a chain of caves that run for miles.
Got another swing ride after cave.  Huge.  Fun so had to do it 2 times.  The second time was a bit more graceful!  Got a very high rating on the first one from the 2 guys on the tour, but that was for the size of the splash, definitely not the style!
Then a relaxing tube down the river back to the guest house.  Very nice way to finish.
Lunch and then off to walk to the park to see the Semuc Champey pools.  Only took about 30 minutes.  But very hot and humid, so had a swim as soon as arriving, and then up to the lookout (mirador).  That was a climb.  Up rock steps and a very steep set of stairs.  The view was amazing.  Took about 30 minutes almost straight up, or it felt like it.  Was surprised how high I had climbed.
The pools themselves are great, many of them and the water is very clear.  But not alot of water running through them, most of the river water runs underneath the pools.  The river goes underwater just above the pools and comes out just below.  The pools themselves may have been formed when cave roofs collapsed.
Then dinner at the guest house and to bed early again.




May 17,  Semuc Champey, Guatemala
Up for 8 am departure.  Very early start.
Then a 9 hour trip to arrive at hotel.
Did a lot of talking as there were 5 Canadian university students on the bus.  One of them from Rosetown, close to my home town.  She plays hockey for the University of Edmonton team and used to play against a girl from home as well!  Small world!
2 hours just on gravel roads, but driver was being very slow for some reason!
Arrived at guest house.  Very secluded and nice, right on the river.  The guest house is a bit 'rustic'.  Turns out the power is only on from 6.30 to 9.30 pm. No hot water.   Will we survive with no internet for 2 days!  But the setting is beautiful.  Nice to have a beer and watch and listen by the river.  Seems to be even a few fire flies around.
Went for a swim and did the rope swing into river.
Dinner was great, only had choice of vegetarian or chicken.  Surprising as there is only about 9 people staying here.  Met a couple of guys (US and Belgium) that hitchhiked here.  They said they had a ride in 2 minutes.  They camped along the river.
Since no lights, in bed by 9 am!
May 16,  Antigua, Guatemala
Boat trip to 3 villages on Lake Atitlan.  Very nice.  The lake is full of algae, and seemed to  be everywhere!  At least it did not smell.  Villages nice, but looked the same.  Very small with many markets.  That is interesting.
Back about 3 and caught shuttle bus to Antigua.
Arrived back about 7 and just relaxed.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Antigua to Panajachel, Guatemala 2011


May 15,  Panajachel, Guatemala
Off at 8 am for the Chichicastenango market.  Apparently the largest in Central America.
Supposed to be a 1 hour drive but the traffic on way to market was backed up for miles.  It appeared, after about 1 hour stopped on the road, that a truck was stalled out.
At least we did not have to go hungry or thirsty as many sellers were walking up and down the road side.
The ride was at least comfortable, in a car with 1 other guy.  He was for Miami and had been traveling in Guatemala for a few weeks.  Was great as he gave us some good recommendations.
The market is huge!  The streets are blocked off and the stalls are set up in front of the store fronts.  Street after street, and all the squares full of stalls selling clothes, meat, plastic goods and second hand stuff.  Anything you could want or need!  Live dogs, cats, chickens, ducks, turkeys, pigs.
Spent a couple of hours wandering around.  There were actually 2 churches in the main square.  A mix of Catholic and Mayan.  Both were filled with smoke caused by fires on the steps and inside.
Did not buy anything, I was able to resist the persistence of the sellers.  These were even more aggressive than town!
Many local people in traditional dress were doing the shopping and selling.  
Only took 1 hour to come back.  
Relaxed for rest of afternoon.



May 14,  Panajachel, Guatemala
8 am shuttle, which really left at 8.30 for Panajachel.  Interesting ride, many windy roads and mountains.  Much of the land agricultural, and most terraced.
Arrived about 11 am.  Spent the rest of afternoon having lunch and walking the streets.  Small place with mostly hotels, restaurants and shops.  The lake is fairly large but you can still see the volcanos on the other side.  There is a haze everywhere but not sure if cloud or smog.  We did arrange for a boat tour for Monday.
The shops have similar stuff as Antigua but then some of it is different again.  The sellers are a bit more aggressive here and will follow you along for a bit.
No several times!
May 13,  Antigua, Guatemala
Laundry day!  But this time I had to do it!  Bit of a shock to the system.  Went to a laundromat.  Not used to that, but I survived!
Then off wandering around the city.  Went to the Convent of San Francisco.  Old ruins from the mid 1600s.   But have been rebuilt over the years due to earthquake destruction.
Only parts have been redone, much of the place is in ruins.
Also had a look at a photographic display in the Central Square.   Appeared to be a one of people that had been hit by water disasters.  New Orleans was included as well as many other places around the world!