Laos 2010

Oct 21, Pontsavan, Laos

The tour group were in full force again today at breakfast.  But they were on the road by 7.30 am.  Wow that is early.

I had a private driver and private tour guide today as no one else signed up for the tour.

First stop was the information centre.  Here they had many of the bombs and mortars on display.  

Next stop Site 1 of the Plain of Jars.  Fascinating as there are these rocks carved into jars that are huge scattered around on top of a couple of hills!  They believe but not sure that they are about 2000 years old and used for burial.  There are several sites in the area.  Only 6 of the jars have any carvings on them.  A mystery.  

The area was bombed heavily as was the whole area, but the survived.  One of the them had a huge crater beside it, which caused the opposite side to split away!

Next to another cave.  This had a huge Buddha in it as well, but this one was used by the villagers to hide during the bombing.  A table is still there and supposedly a Russian operating table.

Just next to it was the Viet Cong cave.  This was used as a hospital for the VC.  Many morphine bottles still all over the cave floor.  The cave was bombed and most of it had caved in.  The site was perfect for overlooking the valley.

Stopped at a village where they have used old bombs and shells to build their houses and livestock pens.  A big industry in the area is recycling medal from bombs and planes, although illegal,   There is even a plant where they melt the aluminum and make spoons!

On way back to city stopped at the UXO site (unexploded ordinance)  A walk through the pasture and there are still unexploded shells and bombs on the ground.  They are marked with blue paint.  Even 35 years after the war ended, still having impact on area.  This area was the most heavily bombed of the Secret war and the Vietnam war.  The area is a stategic holding for both the US and the Vietnamese.  

Last was a quick stop at a Russian tank.  The guide said that the suspension was still on the tank when he first started doing tours 8 years ago.  Gone now!  Recycled!

Great day.  The tour guide keep saying  he was being bitten by 'flee'.  Strange I did not know where the flees were coming from!  I then figured out that he meant 'fly'!

Oct 20, Pontsavan, Laos

Caught a tuk tuk to the bus station, and then onto the mini bus, really a van.  Much newer than the last, and a good thing as the road was even rougher, windier and steeper than the one to Vang Vieng.  The scenery was beautiful.  Into the mountains.  Mostly bananas and rice.  Amazing as there are villages that have built up right along the highway.  The front of house on edge of highway and the back end on stilts hanging over the cliffs!  The fields are mostly on the steep mountain sides as well.

Shortly after leaving the city, an young guy got on.  20 years old and on his way to study at University in Laung Prabang!  He had very good English and was great just to talk to him.  He is of the Hmong tribe.  They have ancestry that originates in China.  They were also recruited by the CIA as a group to fight the Vietnamese that were using Laos (the HoChi Min trail) in the mountains of Laos during the 'Secret War' (1967 to 1971).  Secret as the US did not want to admit to having any activity in the war. He is studying Business and wants to be a business man, but could not be more specific!

After about 2 1/2 hours, he got off at the main junction where he would continue on to Laung Prabang and I would go to Pontsavan.  About 3 hours later arrived in Pontsavan.  Was met by 3 people from guesthouses.  The Maly hotel, as recommended by the guide book was there so went with them.  100,000 kip per night ($12) but no breakfast.  I also signed up for a tour of the area tomorrow as was too late when I arrived to do much.  Went for a walk around the city.  Very different.  Not many guest houses or hotels in this city, and only met very few foreigners on my walk.  I think they are all staying at the same place.

Got lots of stares walking.  One little guy just stared so I waved and smiled!  Well I got a wave back and big smile!  He was riding on the back of a motor bike so he had to tell his mother.

Lots of 'Hellos' but no "where are you from?'!

Tours are very expensive here which seems out of proportion to other prices!  But many of the cars are new Toyotas or Nissans, with the odd Ford thrown in!  Gas is about $1.10 to 1.20 per litre.  This tour is $75 (US, which is how they seem to be quoted) but includes lunch.

Oct 19, Vang Vieng, Laos

On tour today.  After a short ride in tuk tuk, stopped along the river and got into kayaks.  Rivier current fairly strong here and had to paddle across the river.  Did not even get wet!

First stop was the elephant cave!  A Buddha in cave but the limestone had created a form that looked like an elephant.

Then headed off through a small village, and through some rice paddies to a couple of other caves.  Interesting as we had to do a little bit of climbing, and the floor of cave was muddy and wet so very slippery.  That and very uneven.  I did not slip but one woman did!  Good thing not many bats in cave!

Caves had many stalagmites and stalactites many with crystals formed in to them.  Saw a huge spider!  Good thing I had not talked to the woman met on bus next day as she had a reaction to something that bit her in one of the caves.  Even worse was when we returned to leave the cave the spider was gone!  Where was it?  But had just moved a bit!

Lunch was a beef skewer and fried rice.  The skewer was cooked on a fire but the rice had been brought from town.  Was very good.

Then a short walk and into the water cave.  This cave has a river flowing from the rocks and out the mouth of the cave.  We climbed on inner tubes and pulled ourselves by a rope to the end the of cave.  Was great.  Water was cold to start but ok by the time we finished.

walked back to kayaks and then had a 3 hour paddle back to Vang Vieng.  Paddled along the river.  Was very scenic.  Went past the inner tube starting place but shortly after that were many bars where the inner tubers stop!  Big parties, and lots of people.  Many bars.  This is were most of the people were during the day!  Crazy.

Had to paddle through a few rapids, but nothing really serious except one of the couples did tip over.  Not surprising as they would end up in the bushes, pushed in by the rapids.

We went for a beer and then met for dinner later.  Was great to meet up with others.  1 German woman, an Israeli couple and another couple from London.

Oct 18, Vang Vieng, Laos

Up very early this morning and not sure why!

But did have to catch a bus to Vang Vieng.  I thought that I was catching a big bus but turns out it was a mini van.  There were 1 German woman and  4 Thai guys in the van as well.

After a 3 hour ride over one of the main highways in Laos arrived at exactly where I really wanted to stay!  The highway was something else.  It was very slow going as there were very many pot holes and a lot of plain gravel sections that were very rough going.  

This city is in the mountains.  They really are limestone cliffs, but very nice as they are mostly covered in greenery!  It is beautiful countryside, as I hope to find out tomorrow.

Spent the afternoon wandering the streets of the village.  Not that big so did not even get lost!

The village is pretty all guesthouses and restaurants!  Many of the restaurants were empty but the ones that had people in had TVs going with either Friends or Family Guy on!  The people were sitting drinking beers!  Good think I do not like either of those shows!  Apparently this is a party hangout place where you drink lots, watch TV or if really ambitious float down the river on an inner tube, and of course drink beer or stop at the many pubs that are on the route!  Interesting place!  I did none of those.  I have a tour tomorrow and then leaving the following morning!

The village is on the Nam Song River which flows into the Mekong River.

I have taken a guesthouse with a room that over looks the river.  The view is beautiful.  Many long tail boats going by, tubers and lots of water, which a contrast to no water in the Jordanian wadis.  The sunset on the mountains was also very nice.  I will have to take pictures tomorrow night!  It would be very peaceful, except on the island across the river there are several bars with their music going.  None appear to be too busy!  I have been told this is the low season, as still raining, but also told it is the high season, so not really sure what season it is!  Just know that there are not very many people here.

In my wanderings I did run into the Indiana guy and his Thai girlfriend that I met in Vientiane.

Also discovered that I had left my camera battery charger somewhere!  Either Petra or Aqaba!  Damn!  But stopped in one shop on way to dinner, thinking that others have done the same here!  Sure enough, found an older model of my charger that hopefully will work!  After 85,000 kip ($11)  I am on my way.  I thought it was going to cost more!

Very much the rainy season still.  Just this afternoon 2 downpours went through!  They last about 5 minutes and then gone.  Sun did not come out today but looks like there are stars showing tonight.

Oct 17, Vientiane, Laos

Must have been tired as woke up at 9 am!

Breakfast and off.  

Went to the Morning Market.  Not sure why as is open most of the day!  The place is huge.  Probably 3 or 4 city blocks under very differing buildings.  One is like a 3 story shopping mall with small shops and the other 2 that i saw are under tin roofed building, with open sides.  Packed with stuff, everything you can imagine!  Appliances to small $1 store toys.  They even have brand new Singer sewing machines that are run by foot peddle!  That was a shocker.  Also another brand that I did not recognize.

Then headed off the the large monument.  This is a large concrete structure built years ago but never finished as they ran out of concrete.  Supposedly got finished with concrete diverted from the runways for the airport, but still looks unfinished!  Maybe as it is not painted.  

Also seems to be the local hangout for the young people.  They all seemed to be consuming large bottles of beer!

Oh yes, that is another contrast!  Beer everywhere here! As well as everything you can imagine for alcohol.  Beer is cheap as well.  Had a small beer for less that $1 tonight!  Still in heaven I guess!

Walking around the monument were also several monks of various ages.  All had big smiles for me!  And I even got there photo and helped them take photos of themselves.  Kind neat!

Wondered back to city area to travel agent to look at tours.  Very expensive, and they quote in US dollars.  1 day tour for $60 yet you can eat very well for less than $5.  Does not make sense.

Wandered along river bank again, and went the Wat Sisaket.  This is the oldest building in city as most others have been destroyed in the various wars.  It is also supposed to the largest in Laos.  Missed the museum, so will have to come back.

Back to hotel for a nap only to find out that the guy did not extend my reservation for tonight, and they wanted me to move rooms.  Not sure if I have a bus ticket or not for tomorrow, shall see!

Out for dinner and another excellent meal for about $4.  Got to love this!

Getting busier along the river.  Many of the stalls are already open.  Interesting the games of chance they have.  Toss a plastic wash pan over a bottle of beer, pop or wine!  And the usual dart into the balloons, balls into small boxes.

Oct 16, Vientiane, Laos

Slept in until about 8 am.  Very nice.  The hotel is very quiet, not many people here.

Spoke with a Japanese guy here working for a few weeks on an forestry project.  Very interesting.

Also met a guy from Indiana, with an accent that I have trouble understanding.

Wandered around the city today after a lounging breakfast.  I have died and gone to heaven!  The coffee here is excellent.  It is a Laos coffee and made nice and strong!  I do not think they believe how many cups I had this morning.

Talk about culture shock!  Such a drastic change from Jordan.  Dry to wet and humid.  It is raining, the pouring rain in Bangkok should have been a warning.

Conservative to very much not!  Covered women to women with very little on!

Back in the land of "tuk-tuk, 'no'; 'woman', 'no'; 'opium', 'no'  being the standard conversation!  Actually hilarious.  And does bring back memories of Bangkok!  Very similar, in fact some of the language is very similar as well!

Great as the city is getting ready for a boat festival next weekend, so people are setting up their stalls along the Mekong River.  

Talked to the owner of hotel this morning and he said they are in a scramble getting the river bank ready for the festival, and it shows.  Still earth movers building the dike to keep the river from flooding.

Went to the museum.  That was great.  Very low tech, as most was photographs with brief descriptions and some artifacts, but did provide insight into the the turbulent war torn history of the country!  Thailand, China and the US, all in the last 100 years.

People are very nice and extremely polite and soft spoken.

Walked along the river bank and around the cities downtown area.  There are sidewalks but you can;t use them as they either have motorcycles parked or have small restaurants.

Exhausted to went to bed early after a great meal for about $3.

Oct 15, Vientiane, Laos

After traveling all day, with 3 hours in Bangkok's new airport, arrived in Vientiane at about 8 pm.  It was a long day.  Very nice that hotel had shuttle picking me up.

The AV Hotel is a very newly renovated place and is luxuary, and only US$35!  Bit expensive but nice.